We often have this idea in our heads: to truly get away, we have to go far away. Take a flight, change our surroundings, and completely disconnect from our daily lives.
And then, sometimes, life changes that preconceived notion. Over the past few months—and even now—I’ve been going through a difficult time that’s turned everything upside down: cancer. As I write this, I’m actually about to start a course of chemotherapy.
So, during these times of uncertainty, when everything feels more up in the air, we realize just how valuable it can be to treat ourselves to a break—even a short one. Not to escape reality, but to take a different kind of breath, to find a little breathing room, a little lightness. That’s exactly what we did with this getaway to Saumur during the off-season. And it was exactly what I needed.
Why choose Saumur for an off-season weekend getaway?
Tucked away between Angers and Tours, Saumur is one of those destinations that charms without trying too hard. As soon as you arrive, you sense a special atmosphere: a small, elegant, peaceful town. Off-season, it reveals a more intimate, almost secret side.
The banks of the Loire invite you to slow down; the narrow streets are best explored at a leisurely pace, and the whole place exudes a genuine sense of tranquility.Here, everything seems designed to help you unwind. Add to that a UNESCO World Heritage Site setting, with castles, vineyards, and charming villages… and you have the perfect destination for a refreshing getaway without traveling far (if you’re in western France).
Especially since, when it comes to cuisine, the region has plenty to offer. There are many local specialties to try, starting with fouées. These small bread rolls, baked over a wood fire, can be topped however you like: with rillettes, cheese, or mogettes… It’s a warm, generous experience and truly enjoyable to savor in a cave-dwelling setting, by candlelight. You’ll have no trouble finding excellent cave-dwelling restaurants near Saumur, such as Les Caves de Marson in Rou-Marson.
The region is also renowned for its Loire wines, particularly its crémants. Even though they aren’t usually our favorite, it’s worth giving them a try during our stay.
What is there to do in Saumur and the surrounding area?
Whether I’m visiting the area for work, with my family, or with my partner, I always rediscover the city and its surroundings—there are just so many experiences to enjoy. Whether you’re a cycling enthusiast, a lover of beautiful scenery, a foodie, or a history buff, you’re sure to find something you’ll love!
So I’ve listed here the things I’ve already had the chance to try, as well as the ones that are still on my “must-try” to-do list.
- A Timeless Escape: Fontevraud Abbey
The Royal Abbey of Fontevraud is truly worth taking the time to explore. It is a gem that impresses from the very first step: the architecture is grand, elegant, almost solemn, and yet the atmosphere remains incredibly gentle and soothing. You almost instinctively wander through it at a leisurely pace, as if the place naturally inspires calm. There’s something very special about this abbey: a sense of grandeur, of course, but also a genuine serenity.
What makes a visit here even more fascinating is its history. Founded in the early 12th century, Fontevraud is not like other abbeys. Originally, it was conceived as a somewhat unconventional monastic city, welcoming both women and men—which was quite exceptional for the time. It quickly became one of the largest religious centers in Europe. It has also left its mark on the history of France and England, as it is home to the recumbent statues of Eleanor of Aquitaine, Henry II Plantagenet, and Richard the Lionheart. Even if you’re not a history buff, you can feel the weight of the centuries here—but in a very accessible, almost intuitive way.
I also really liked the fact that Fontevraud isn’t stuck in the past. The place is still alive—in a different way. This dialogue between heritage and contemporary art is particularly successful, especially through the museum of modern art located right inside the abbey. The contrast works wonderfully: on one hand, stone, silence, and history; on the other, more contemporary works that catch the eye and offer a new perspective on the site. It’s this blend that makes the visit so unique: you’re not just contemplating a monument, but engaging in a truly sensory experience.
I found this visit to be beautiful, inspiring, and deeply rejuvenating. It’s a place where you take your time, observe more closely, and experience things more deeply rather than just “going through the motions” of the visit. It’s clearly one of those places that leaves a lasting impression.
To make this lovely moment last a little longer, I recommend taking a gourmet break at the “Les Trois Lys” bakery, right across the street. Behind this simple, welcoming spot—recognizable by its tea room featuring a real fireplace—lies an artisan with a remarkable career. Trained starting at age 17 at the famous Lenôtre in Paris, Olivier Hanocq went on to hone his craft in Argentina, where he taught baking and pastry-making for several years. There, he championed a rigorous and authentic approach to the craft, grounded in respect for traditional techniques—particularly the use of sourdough and long, natural fermentation processes, without additives. Upon returning to France in 2024, he chose Fontevraud-l’Abbaye as the place to share this passion and pass on his expertise through sincere and generous creations.
- Hiking with sled dogs
One of the most unique activities I really enjoy—and have had the chance to try here—is dog-sledding with Husky Dream. After meeting the dogs for the first time and getting some instructions, my brother and I set off on a hike, connected to our husky. The guide takes great care to pair you with dogs that suit your personality—whether you’re more laid-back or athletic. After that, you just let yourself be carried along by the dog’s energy, and the walk takes on an almost meditative quality! I also had the chance to try this activity in Finistère, right in the heart of the Monts d’Arrée, and I have to admit it’s a really fun way to enjoy the scenery while getting some exercise!
- Take a guided tour with commentary on an electric bike or in a vintage van
Sticking with sports, I think that in the spring or during Indian summer, exploring the treasures of Saumur and the surrounding region on two wheels can be a great idea. I haven’t had a chance to try it out around here yet, but I did it for a weekend on the Côte d’Amour with a friend, and I think it’s just perfect for slow travel.
Cyclo de Loire offers a variety of packages that I find particularly interesting. While guided tours are mainly available in July and August, you can certainly rent bikes and get tips for exploring the surrounding area the rest of the year. If you’re traveling in a group (8 to 12 people) between April and September, you can enjoy an outing that combines biking and boating, with lunch in between!
For those who prefer a more leisurely activity or simply want to enjoy themselves without getting too tired, I’ve found an alternative that looks absolutely fantastic: a tour with Loire Vintage Discovery. The concept is simple and incredibly appealing: explore the banks of the Loire aboard Jean-Claude, their red camper van, or Jeanine, their iconic Renault 4L. The names alone set the tone. The experience promises an immersion in a vintage, almost ’70s-style atmosphere, with itineraries designed to reveal the hidden gems of the Saumur region. It’s an original, friendly, and effortless way to travel back in time while exploring the region.
And that retro spirit doesn’t stop there. Every year, Saumur hosts an event that has become a must-attend: Anjou Vélo Vintage. The idea? Thousands of participants crisscross the roads of Anjou by bike, dressed in period costumes and riding vintage bicycles. Here, it’s not about performance, but about a truly festive atmosphere, with routes winding through vineyards, villages, and the landscapes of the Loire Valley. The next edition takes place in late June, and it’s clearly the kind of event that makes you want to come back to discover the region from a different angle—one that’s even more lively and offbeat.
- Take the wine tour and discover all the secrets of how the wines are made
If there’s one experience you shouldn’t miss in the region, it’s without a doubt the Anjou Wine Route. It’s the kind of getaway you’ll love just as much for the scenery as for the people you meet. Here, the vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, the little villages are utterly charming, and every detour holds a delightful discovery. It’s easy to see why Anjou’s wines bring such prestige to the region: they alone tell part of its story—its identity, its history, and its way of life.
What I particularly love about this route is that it really encourages you to take your time. It’s not just about going from one tasting to the next—it’s about meeting the people who bring the vineyard to life every day. Chatting with passionate winemakers, discovering how they work, gaining a deeper understanding of grape varieties, terroirs, and winemaking methods…That’s what makes the experience so enriching. We often leave with a few good bottles, of course, but above all with wonderful stories and a new perspective on what we’ve tasted.
Plus, a day on the wine route is also the perfect excuse to make a few gourmet stops along the way. I highly recommend visiting the local markets or stopping by a small village shop to sample the local specialties.
Still on the topic of local craftsmanship, I also loved discovering the Combier Distillery. It’s exactly the kind of visit you might not necessarily think of at first, but which turns out to be a wonderful surprise. There, you’re immersed in a fascinating world that blends heritage, artisanal production, and the passing down of traditions. Seeing the historic stills, understanding the different stages of production, and learning more about this iconic distillery…It’s both very interesting and a truly enjoyable experience, even if you’re not particularly knowledgeable about the subjectto begin with.
We were lucky enough to visit during the holiday season, and the atmosphere was even more magical thanks to a Christmas market set up on site, where we could also discover local artisans. It was truly a wonderful experience—friendly, delicious, and inspiring. If you have the chance to go during this time of year, it’s definitely a bonus. I also recommend checking out their website before your visit, since the distillery offers several really interesting packages. Some experiences can even be combined with Saumur Loire Cruises, and I find that idea particularly appealing. Because, after all, exploring the region from the Loire is yet another way to experience it. As you glide along the water, the landscapes take on a different dimension—one that’s gentler and more contemplative. The pace slows down, silence settles in, the light changes… and you simply savor the moment.
Another option that strikes me as a great idea: the cocktail workshops offered by the distillery. They’re original, fun, and friendly—and honestly, I think they make a wonderful gift to give or enjoy together. Whether you’re with your partner, friends, or family, it’s the kind of activity that’s a little out of the ordinary while still being deeply rooted in the local culture.
- Add the Cadre Noir de Saumur to your to-do list
If there’s one place I’d really like to visit on a future trip to the region, it’s the Cadre Noir in Saumur. It’s exactly the kind of iconic spot you often hear about when planning a weekend in Saumur—the sort of experience that seems like a must-do at least once. Even though I’m not a huge horseback riding enthusiast, I find there’s something fascinating about this world: all the elegance, precision, discipline, and the incredibly strong bond between the rider and their horse.
The Cadre Noir is truly an integral part of Saumur’s identity and heritage. Behind its well-known name lies an institution steeped in history, rooted in a great French equestrian tradition. It is a place where the true art of movement, precise execution, and the passing down of knowledge is kept alive. For this historical and cultural aspect alone, I think a visit here clearly deserves a place on any trip to Saumur.
From what I’ve seen, the tour lets you explore the stables and some of the work areas, and learn more about the history of the place, the daily lives of the riders, and everything that makes the Cadre Noir so unique. I imagine it must be particularly interesting to see in person, because there’s surely a whole atmosphere there that you don’t quite get the same way from just looking at photos.
Here’s a quick tip to keep in mind if you’d like to add this to your itinerary: it’s best to plan your visit well in advance, as the time slots are mostly in the morning. So it does require a little planning if you want to spend the rest of the day exploring Saumur or the surrounding area. And if you’re hoping to witness something even more memorable, keep in mind that equestrian shows and galas take place on specific dates throughout the year. These are definitely events to mark on your calendar in advance if you want to experience them in an even more impressive way.
In any case, it’s a visit I’m keeping close to my heart at the top of my list for next time, because it really seems like the kind of place that leaves a lasting impression—even if you’re not there specifically for the horse-related attractions.
Where to stay in Saumur? Le Londres, a charming place to stay
For our getaway to Saumur, we were looking above all for a hotel in a good location, offering good value for the money, a small gym, and a proper brunch. Put that way, it might sound pretty specific. But it’s often those little details that really make a difference when you’re away for a few days. And that’s exactly what led us to the Hotel Le Londres.
Located right in the heart of downtown, ideal for a stroll to the Château de Saumur, the hotel already checked off a lot of boxes on paper. But once we arrived, we quickly realized that this place had much more to offer than just a convenient location.
As soon as you walk through the door, you sense something special. A gentle, elegant, soothing atmosphere. Le Londres is one of those places with a true soul. Open since 1837, it has stood the test of time with that unique charm found in buildings that have a story to tell. The tuffeau stone, the woodwork, the antique details, the materials, the decor… everything is just right. Refined and warm, without being stuffy or overly pretentious.
But what I liked most about this place, deep down, isn’t just the setting. It’s really everything that lies behind it. During brunch, we had the chance to meet Charlotte, the owner. And I have to admit that I love moments like this when I’m traveling. Because from that point on, a hotel is no longer just a nice place to sleep—it becomes a story, an adventure, something much more alive.
As we talked with her, we discovered how she and her husband had taken over Le Londres as part of a true life transformation. And quite honestly, that’s probably what touched me the most about this place. Because you immediately sense that this isn’t just a tastefully renovated hotel. Behind this place lies a project born of passion— a tremendous amount of work, patience, and energy—and, above all, a deep desire to restore this establishment to its former glory.
They didn’t just take over a hotel—they breathed new life into an iconic building in Saumur. And you can feel it everywhere—in the atmosphere, in the attention to detail, in the balance between the charm of the past and modern comfort. Nothing is left to chance. You get the sense that this place was designed to be beautiful, of course, but above all to be lived in.
And then, there’s also everything that made us choose this place in the first place.
The small gym is a real plus if, like us, you enjoy working out for an hour or so even on the weekend. That’s the kind of detail I really appreciate in a hotel, especially when you’re staying for several days. It’s not huge, but it’s elegant, well-designed, and more than enough to help you get into a rhythm before heading out to explore the city.
And of course, we have to talk about brunch. Because clearly, it’s one of this place’s biggest draws. And not just because it’s nice to be able to have brunch there on a Sunday morning, but mainly because you can tell there’s a real attention to detail behind what they offer.
What I particularly liked was their genuine commitment to using high-quality, locally sourced ingredients. And honestly, you can tell right away. The bread, the jams, the quiches, the cheeses… Everything has that sense of well-executed simplicity that I love so much. There’s nothing ostentatious, nothing too “staged”—just good, carefully selected ingredients.
But what I found even nicer was that the brunch buffet isn’t limited to just a few classics. There’s that generous, friendly vibe that I really love—for example, the chance to make your own homemade waffles or pancakes. It’s a simple little detail, but it makes the experience even more welcoming and indulgent.
I also liked the nod to the hotel’s name—the chance to enjoy a real English breakfast, but also to savor a few dishes inspired by other cuisines, such as an Indian dish from a neighboring partner restaurant. This gives the brunch a feel that’s both exotic and consistent with the spirit of the place. You can tell that the entire space was carefully designed, with the same high standards, the same desire to do things right, and—above all—that attention to detail that transforms a simple late breakfast into a truly enjoyable experience.
All in all, Le Londres was a wonderful surprise. It’s a place that checks all the practical boxes we were looking for from the start—yes—but above all, it offers so much more than that. A hotel with charm, comfort, and real character… and, most importantly, a human story behind its walls. And I think that’s exactly what makes us feel so at home there.
There you go! I hope I’ve inspired you to explore this lovely region and take the time to stroll, sample the local fare, and savor every moment. If you’re looking for an accessible destination that’s full of charm and offers a bit of a change of pace, Saumur truly has that special something that surprises and enchants. With its picturesque streets, gourmet spots, and charming hotels, it’s the kind of getaway that stays with you… and makes you want to come back soon!
Feel free to let me know in the comments if you’re familiar with the area and if you enjoy it, too. And if you’d like more ideas or recommendations, don’t hesitate to ask—I’d be happy to guide you or suggest some places to explore.
See you soon!
