After our trip to Guatemala, we headed back to Mexico?
Discussing our trip with various backpackers, we finally decided to change our itinerary. From El Remate, to reach the Yucatan, it was much simpler to cross the Mexican border via Belize (a small country) rather than up the Chiapas border. Of course, there are border crossing fees to pay, but it’s still cheaper than a plane ticket.
We could have chosen to stay a few days in Belize to enjoy its magnificent seabed, but life is too expensive there, so we just passed through.
The second tip we followed was to do the border crossing using a travel agency and transfer bus. It’s a lot less hassle and not necessarily more expensive. The agency is used to formalities, and will have you pre-fill in the necessary documents for each border crossing. Then all you have to do is hop from shuttle to shuttle to your final destination.
Here is the budget for our border crossing (per person):
- shuttle: approx. 48 euros,
- Belize entry tax: approx. 17 euros,
- Mexico entry tax: approx. 33 euros.
As far as we were concerned, everything went very smoothly, and in just one day we arrived at our destination, Bacalar.
We chose this first stopover because its lagoon seemed magical, with its translucent waters.
Yucatan and Quintana Roo: beautiful landscapes but far too touristy for us
If there’s one thing that really impressed us when we changed countries, it was the roads! We found ourselves back in the USA, with its long, straight, yellow-striped roads and few interesting sights to admire.
Arriving in the evening in the town of Bacalar, we realize that tourism is an important sector for the local population. Small shops offer everything you might need during your stay: swimsuits, sun creams, etc…. The restaurants all offer vegan menus, and the decor is well thought-out.
We’re settling into a very nice little hotel, the Villa Carmita. Here we meet up with our two friends Héloïse and Camille.
Bacalar and its 50 shades of blue lagoon!
The next morning, we decide to hire kayaks to sail at our own pace on the lagoon and its translucent waters.
Prices are relatively high for the country. I recommend going through the Balneario Municipal de Bacalar and the local cooperative. By negotiating a little with them, it will be cheaper than in private centers and other marinas. They also offer boat trips, which are less expensive than the tours on offer.
Lake Bacalar (or Laguna Bacalar) is a long, narrow lake. It is approximately 42 km long from north to south, and less than 2 km at its widest point. The lake is renowned for its striking blue color and water clarity, partly the result of a white limestone bed.
The kayak trip is very pleasant, because you’re free to go and swim wherever you want, whenever you want. In particular, it’s possible to get close to Cenote Negro, one of the lagoon’s cenotes, and above all the deepest, at up to 180 metres! When you get there, it’s easy to see why the water suddenly turns from clear to deep blue. It’s incredible to watch the rock walls disappear into the depths.
You can also take a tour of Bird Island. This is a small protected island where hundreds of birds live permanently and use it as a resting base during their migration.
In the afternoon, we set off with the girls for Los Rapidos. To get there, we either hitchhike or take a cab. This is a part of the lagoon that narrows for 4 km with rapids, forming a kind of canal. You can walk on a wooden platform to the end of the canal and float all the way back thanks to the gentle currents.
It’s a very nice place, well laid out and pleasant to spend some time, but unfortunately, the area has been privatized and the prices go with it (150 pesos for entry). Especially as it’s not easily accessible, you have to take a cab to get there. What’s more, when it comes to protecting the environment, you can do a lot better. In short, tested but not approved.
For the evening return journey, we hitchhiked and it worked! A pick-up truck kindly agreed to take us back to our accommodation. In Mexico, hitchhiking works pretty well, as Mexicans own a lot of pick-ups, and you can usually climb into the back without any trouble!
The next day, we head for Tulum by collectivo, but unlike in Guatemala, it’s much harder to find collective buses to pay less than the big ADO tourist buses.
Tulum, the chic city par excellence
On our way up to the island of Cozumel, we chose to spend a night in Tulum, known as the “hype” spot. This was confirmed as we strolled along the white-sand beach, lined with trendy bars and vegan restaurants. There are also numerous luxury hotels in the vicinity.
It’s true thatthe town’s ruins, which stretch for 6 kms along the beach, are located in an incredible natural setting, with the crystal-clear ocean as a backdrop. Having arrived in the evening, we didn’t visit the ruins, but if you have more time and happen to be in the area, I’d recommend it.
We stayed in a small hotel, casa Frida, which was very cool and very good value for money for the town. On Sunday morning, we were even treated to coffee and pancakes. The night was 36 dollars for 3 without air-conditioning, but frankly we put up with the heat very well, as the room had a window overlooking a patio and was equipped with a fan.
In the evening, right next to the hotel there were numerous street food vendors. Convenient for a good taco!
The next day, we set off again for Playa de Carmen, then Cozumel to spend 4 days/3 nights there.
Cozumel Island, in the footsteps of Captain Cousteau
We chose to stay on this island because we didn’t want to go further up the Yucatan to Cancun and islands like Holbox.
Cozumel is renowned for its incredible diving spots due to the clarity of the sea. After Jacques Cousteau declared Cozumel one of the world’s spectacular dive sites in 1961, enthusiasts came from all over the world to discover the island’s underwater biosphere.
To get to the island of Cozumel, you’ll need to pay 500 pesos for a round trip by ferry, or around 25 euros. You should also be aware that there are no public buses on Cozumel. You’ll have to take a cab or rent a car or scooter to get around, especially in the south of the island for the snorkelling spots.
We really enjoyed our stay here, as a friend had recommended an apartment to us: Rodrigo’s. He was very attentive to our needs. He was very attentive to our needs. He came to pick us up on arrival, did the same for our departure and found a mattress for Morgan. Having an apartment really makes you feel at home. We were able to take advantage of the blender available to us to make ourselves a cure of smoothies!
To enjoy the sea during your stay, I really recommend taking a snorkelling or diving trip, as the most beautiful spots are not accessible from the beaches. If you go to the French in Mexico Facebook page, you’ll easily find French-speaking instructors available to answer your questions about rates and outings.
We couldn’t make the most of it, as my darling came down with an otitis externa. We settled for a trip around the island in a Beetle convertible, which we really enjoyed!
In particular, I recommend two things in the south:
- the Freedom in Paradis Reggae Beach Bar for a drink and a siesta in the sea-view hammocks.
- the Punta Sur reserve, which looks like a great place to spend a full day relaxing and discovering the wildlife.
After these days, we got back on the ferry, then the bus to head for Valalloid. It’s a perfect stopover before Merida. The town is particularly pretty and pleasant to visit by bike, and all around there are some nice cenotes to do.
For journeys, don’t hesitate to compare, because this time between the collectivo and the ADO buses (download the ADO Mobile application), the latter was the more attractive. In fact, once you’ve registered, you’ll receive certain promotions that can be very interesting.
Valladolid is well worth a visit!
This small colonial town with its colourful facades is a charming place to stroll and watch the traditional dancers in the pretty central square. Apart from the end of the day, when tourist buses are parked all around, the rest of the day is very quiet.
The best option we found for making the most of the days was to rent bikes to go to the nearby cenotes:
- one is located directly in the town center: the Zaci cenote,
- the other is the Oxman cenote. Ideal for a day of lounging and jumping into the refreshing water. The site is perfectly equipped with lockers (50 pesos), restaurant, toilets, showers and changing rooms. Admission costs 150 pesos (including compulsory life jacket).
Others are possible nearby: Dzitnup in particular, but they were closed at the time we went there.
Be careful in the cenote: I lost one of my shoes when I jumped… So go barefoot!
After all these emotions and good times, we headed back to Merida by public transport. We found the Centro company (located at the junction of routes 37 and 44), which had the advantage of passing through the small town of Izamal, known as “the yellow city”.
We stopped for lunch at the market and took a few photos of the main streets and the famous convent, before catching another bus from the same company to reach our destination. The fare to Izamal is 81 pesos per person or around 4 euros.
Mérida, last stop in the Yucatan
An essential stopover in the Yucatan, the capital is an ideal spot for those who want to enjoy the cultural riches of the city and surrounding area. Our budget and schedule were tight, so we only spent one night there, but I know it’s perfectly possible to stay for at least 4 or 5 days, if you want to take the time to visit museums, archaeological sites and cenotes.
Our accommodation, the casa verde, was a little out of the way but the value for money was unbeatable, especially as the hostel had self-service bicycles…. and a swimming pool!!! A real luxury when you’re on a world tour.
The state of Campeche and its city: a real favorite!
It’s a long way to the state of Chiapas. Stops are essential, and in my opinion, Campeche is a must!
Its ramparts and privileged location on the sheltered waterfront of the Gulf of Mexico made it a highly sought-after spot in the past, which led to numerous attacks and looting by pirates. It’s hardly surprising, then, that its fortified center, now home to pretty, colourful cobbled streets, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Today, it’s great fun to cycle around, visit its parks and gardens, and stroll along the seafront promenade. In the evening, head for Calle 59, the liveliest street with bars and restaurants with terraces right in the middle of the street 😉 Of course, you can also take a siesta in the shade of a tree in the Plaza de la independencia, Campeche’s central square. All the adjoining streets are busy with shops, where you can enjoy ice creams, churros and other delicacies.
Campeche is also the starting point for visiting sites such as Calakmul.
After these days by the sea, we’re back on the road to Chiapas, stopping off at Palenque.
To make the hours of driving less of a burden, we decide to take the night bus. It’s convenient and saves us a night in a hotel.
Chiapas: a land of nature and authenticity
The Chiapas region is a state in southern Mexico, bordering Guatemala. Its mountainous landscapes and rainforest, dotted with Mayan archaeological sites and Spanish colonial towns, make this part of the country much more authentic than other regions we’ve visited before. Here, although tourism is present, it doesn’t seem to have much impact on the locals, who instead preserve their culture and traditions from generation to generation. San Cristobal de las Casas and San Juan Chamula are two of the best examples of this.
Palenque, for its Ecoparque and archaeological site
There’s nothing charming about the town of Palenque, but a stopover at its archaeological site is a must, at the very least.
The beauty of these Mayan ruins lies in the fact that the site is on the edge of the jungle and at the foot of the Chiapas mountains. This is best understood when you discover that Palenque means “surrounded by trees”. With its overhanging bridge, waterfall, moss and light shining through the vegetation to illuminate the remains of the past, Palenque’s natural beauty is awe-inspiring.
What’s open to the public is divided into 4 zones, and the crazy thing is that 80% of this great Mayan city has yet to be explored, as it’s buried beneath the jungle.
To get there, there are small collectivos in the town center that will take you there for a few pesos (20/25 pesos per person or 1 euro). Then you have to pay the entrance fee for the reserve + the entrance fee for the ruins, i.e. a total of around 215 pesos (€11). Be sure to ask the driver what time the last collectivo back to the city center leaves. We opted to do the tour ourselves without a guide. The day before, we downloaded a guidebook explaining the history of the site.
The site is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., so bring a water bottle, sun and rain protection and mosquito repellent. You can also pack a picnic lunch.
Aluxes Ecoparque is also a great place to visit if you’re a wildlife enthusiast.
This is not a traditional zoo, but a center run by a non-profit, non-governmental civil association. Its main mission is to save the Chiapas ecosystem. Today, it is the leading wildlife rescue center. It works alongside local authorities to help save and rehabilitate animals that have fallen victim to cruelty and illegal trafficking.
Their first job was to plant over 10,000 trees on the property, along with other plants to complete and balance this new ecosystem.
You’ll also be walking through a completely natural environment, and as you go, you’ll see animals living their lives in their own environment. You can even get hands-on experience with certain animals, such as feeding manatees or approaching parrots.
We really enjoyed this time, especially Morgan, who wants to become an animal caretaker and whose favorite animal is the manatee.
San Cristobal, the oldest Spanish city in Chiapas.
After these beautiful days, it’s time for us to head off to San Cristobal de Las Casas, where we’ll be gaining height (2,200 m) and breaking out the sweaters and pants! We made the journey by collectivo, at very reasonable prices compared with the ADO buses.
We particularly enjoyed our stay in this town, which we can’t quite put our finger on, has something extra. Maybe because here, men and women are dressed in thick black fur jackets or skirts, and hats?
Here we find again what we loved about Africa: street vendors, everyday life and local markets, where the smells of spices, tacos and boiled corn mingle. Even if poverty seems more prevalent here, life is in full swing.
We stayed in a kind ofyouth hostel which was located close to the market, very convenient for taking the collectivos and walking around the city. The downside is that there’s no one to open for you on arrival, so if you can, ask for the owner’s Whatsapp number so you can get in touch with her if you need to. They also offer tours to visit certain sites. We went through them to do the Sumidero canyon and everything went very well.
We’re not usually fans of group sightseeing trips, but this one is hard to do in collectivos. There’s a mirador section to see the canyon from above, and then you have to climb back down to take a boat across the canyon before ending the day with a visit to Chiapa de Corzo. Expect to pay 350-400 pesos (16-20 euros) for the mirador and boat trip + city tour, with the shuttle picking you up at your hotel.
Another local attraction is the town of San Juan Chamula. This small town 10 km away is easily accessible by collectivos. The inhabitants of “Chamoula” are Tzotzil Indians, who fiercely defend their identity and traditions. They speak a language from the Mayan linguistic group.
The Tzotziles practice a kind of syncretism, a mixture of two beliefs and two rites (common in Mexico). The church of San Juan de Chamula is a symbol of this. Inside the church, photos and videos are out of the question, as they would steal souls.
The benches have been removed. The tower bells have been removed and placed at the entrance. Pine needles cover the floor. Hundreds of small candles, glued together with their own wax, are placed around the needles, and on the tables, other hundreds of candles make for a very strange atmosphere.
The Tzotziles, seated on the floor, pray loudly, alone or with their families, and may be accompanied by a shaman. Bottles of coca or alcohol are placed next to the candles.
Why?! The Tzotziles used a fermented corn alcohol for their posh ceremonies. After this was banned, they replaced it with another fizzy drink that makes you burp, and thus expels evil spirits: Coca-Cola.
Chicken sacrifices…
In the beliefs of the Tzotziles, if a person is ill or needs to ward off evil spells, a shamanic rite must be performed, which includes the sacrifice of a hen (to be buried afterwards). These sacrifices are obviously numerous on weekends, but we didn’t see any during our visit, only a hen that was already dead.
After this experience, we moved on to the village cemetery, just as symbolic and typical. What struck us was the absence of graves. It looks as if the bodies have just been buried, as there’s only a mound of earth, sometimes covered with pine needles or flowers.
To finish off our visit to this magnificent region, we spent a day in El Arcotete nature park, also accessible by collectivos. It’s great fun to stroll around and admire the climbers on the cliffs. Ziplines and barbecues are also available. Many locals go there at weekends.
So much for this travel diary! I hope you enjoyed it, and if you did, I’ll be adding to it in another article, in which I’ll introduce you to Mexico’s Festival of the Dead. After Chiapas, we headed for the Oaxaca region, where we wanted to take part in Mexico’s famous festivities. We also made the most of the coast at Puerto Escondido and Mazunte, and finally headed back up to Mexico City via Puebla.
If you have any questions about cities, visits or budgeting for Mexico, please don’t hesitate. I love sharing with you who read me!
I send you my love.
