As I mentioned in my article on the reasons for our round-the-world trip, we chose the countries to visit because they made us dream or because there was a great experience to be had. Ecuador was added to our list because one of my son-in-law Morgan’s dreams was to do ecovolunteering in the Amazon in an animal refuge.
It’s a country I didn’t know much about and had rarely heard of. So I arrived without any preconceptions. And I was not disappointed, far from it. In fact, it has become one of my favorite places since the start of our trip.
By wandering through lagoons and natural parks, I’ve really developed a taste for hiking, whereas before I had to drag myself along to go for a walk. It has to be said that nature is everywhere and lends itself to strolls to admire waterfalls and other viewpoints.
In this article, I’d like to tell you what we visited and what I absolutely recommend you to do if you choose to spend a few weeks in this country.
Practical information you need to know before you leave
- Customs: for French citizens, a passport valid for 6 months after the date of return is required. A tourist card allowing you to stay in the country for 60 days will be given to you on the plane or at the arrival airport. Please keep it in a safe place.
- Local currency: the American dollar! Until 2000, Ecuador’s currency was the sugar, in honor of General Sucre, the country’s 19th-century liberator. Following the sharp devaluation of the currency’s exchange rate, the U.S. dollar replaced it and is now used.
- Time difference: GMT – 5 hours. When it’s 12pm in Paris, it’s 6am (in winter) in Quito and 5am in summer.
- Safety: as in big cities and southern countries, be careful with your personal belongings when strolling through markets and towns. It’s best to leave with only the money you need. In Quito and Guayaquil, avoid crowded alleys and late-night strolls. I had my cell phone stolen from a coat pocket during a traditional festival in Cuenca, and I’ve heard quite a few backpackers have also had their phones stolen by pickpockets, especially on buses, so be careful. If possible, use an invisible fanny pack to put money and phone under your clothes.
- Health: as we were going around the world for a year, we took many vaccinations, but I know that yellow fever vaccination is recommended for travellers to Ecuador and the Galapagos. Don’t wait until the last minute to get it, and make an appointment with your doctor to see what’s best for you.
- Language: Ecuador’s official language is Spanish. Quichua (a variation of Peruvian Quechua) remains the most widespread traditional language in Ecuador.
- Water and food: as in all southern countries, never drink tap water. Prefer mineral water in sealed bottles and avoid ice cubes, except in quality hotels, restaurants and bars that use purified water. If you buy vegetables and fruit at the market, be sure to peel or rinse with mineral water. Prices in local comidas for lunch are very affordable: expect to pay less than 3 euros for a full menu. At these prices, you can’t go without 😉 A word of advice: go to crowded places to avoid getting sick.
- Electricity: voltage is different in Ecuador and lower than in France: 120 volts. You’ll need an adapter with flat plugs.
- Climate: the country’s equatorial climate is broadly divided into two seasons: the rainy season, with daily rainfall, from December to May; the dry season, sunnier, less humid and with cooler temperatures, from June to November.
- Altitude: bear in mind that most of Ecuador’s cities and sites of interest are at altitude. Some examples: Quito, the capital, is at an altitude of 2,850 meters, Cuenca in the south is at 2,600 meters, and for the lagoons and parks, you’ll be climbing above 4,000 meters.
How do you prepare your body for altitude before setting off?
– Before you leave, even if exercising won’t protect you from altitude sickness, I still encourage you to walk, run or cycle. There are some wonderful walks to be had there, so a little preparation will go a long way to helping you enjoy the scenery and suffer less.
– Plan to acclimatize gently on site. To reduce the effects of altitude sickness, it’s essential to start slowly.
For example, if, like us, you arrive in Quito, stay two or three days in the city before setting off directly on your trek. You’ll quickly realize whether or not you’re experiencing this ailment: nausea, headache…
To help you out, you can buy coca leaves or candy at the market. They’re great for combating the effects of altitude.
Quito and surrounding area: a gentle way to acclimatize to the altidude and discover the beauty of Ecuadorian nature
We landed in Quito, the capital. Founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city 2,850 m above sea level, the city still boasts the best-preserved and least altered historic center in Latin America, despite the earthquake of 1917.
On the other hand, you’ll need to be patient to reach the heart of the town from the airport, as it’s so vast and stretches out into the valley.
To make the most of the city center, I recommend this small, unpretentious but clean, reasonably priced and ideally located hotel: the Yumbo Impérial (note that the nearby downtown restaurants close very early in the evening, at 7.30pm max).
From here, you can enjoy a leisurely visit to the must-see sites:
- Independence Square (plaza grande), Quito’s main square,
- the cathedral,
- the nearby El Sagrariochurch, a 17th-century chapel with free admission,
- the church of the Company of Jesus. Admission is charged, but the visit is well worth the detour.
A little further on is the Basilica of the National Vow. I recommend a visit, as it is the largest neo-Gothic basilica in the Americas. You can climb up to the clock tower for a breathtaking view of Quito.
When you return from your visit, I heartily recommend a gourmet break at Bertrand’s chocolate factory. We loved the explanation of how chocolate is made by this Swiss chocolatier, who has been based here for many years, and who works with passion and rigorously selected products. It’s the best chocolate we’ve eaten since our trip to South America.
After this first day of sightseeing and acclimatization, you can then start to climb a little higher.
Two things are wonderful for the panorama:
- The Virgin of Panecillo
Located on the hill of the same name, the statue is the emblem of Quito. It’s the tallest aluminum statue in the world. To get to the foot of the statue, take a cab (approx. $10 return from the city center) and don’t try walking, as we were strongly advised against it (insecurity).
- Le téléfériQo
Quito’s cable car is one of the highest in the world. An 8-minute ascent takes you to the summit, perched at 3945 metres. From up there, the panorama is breathtaking, and for the more courageous, there are several hiking trails. We preferred the swings!
It costs around ten euros to climb.
On another day out, we’re heading for the middle of the world!
Yes, you may not know it, but to reach the middle of the world from your GPS, head about 15 km north (accessible by public bus).
The “Ciudad Mitad del Mundo” is where we French, but from the 18th century, decided to start measuring the earth’s circumference. Why this place? Because at the time, it was the most populated, accessible and highest above sea level area of the equatorial line.
That’s why the country of Ecuador got its name. Thanks to the Ecuadorian line that runs through it.
There are two museums. The best-known is the larger one, visible as soon as you arrive. We preferred the smaller, less touristy Intiñan Museum, just a few metres away.
The Intiñan Museum, home to the “REAL” line.
Scientists have proved that the yellow line in the Ciodad Mitad del Mundo museum is not in the right place! Indeed, more recently, the center of the earth has been measured once again, but with more advanced technology. The result: the correct line for the Equator passes through the place where the Intiñan museum was built.
We were able to take the guided tour in English. We found it very educational, even if we found some of the experiments hard to believe. We were particularly interested in the history of Ecuador’s various ethnic groups.
Otavalo: the first high-altitude walks
From Quito, Otavalo can be reached by local bus for just a few dollars. All you need to do is get to the Carcelen bus station north of the capital.
Otavalo may not be a charming town, but it is famous for its Saturday market. At the fruit and vegetable market, you can sample local specialities such as guinea pig (not possible for me!). In the main square, you can also bargain for an alpaca wool poncho or scarf.
There’s also a pleasant hike to the Peguche waterfall. Finally, Otavalo is a perfect starting point for the Quicocha lagoon.
We managed to negotiate a good rate for three in the Hotel La Rosa. Its breakfast is top notch. I can’t recommend it highly enough.
The Peguche waterfall can be reached on foot from the town center. From the hotel, just follow the old railway tracks and then a sign will show you the way. It’s not an official route, but it saved us the entrance fee 🙂
For the Quicocha lagoon (one of my favorites): just take a bus from the terminal towards Quiroga (40 cents) and then in the square you’ll find a cab to take you to the lagoon for around 5 dollars. If possible, take the driver’s number or see if he can pick you up on the way back, otherwise you’ll have to leave the park like we did and take a little side road to the right to get back on the road and hitchhike to Quiroga.
This lagoon, perched at an altitude of 3100 metres, is located in the crater of a volcano. During the 3-4-hour walk around the lagoon, you can observe a variety of flora and enjoy different viewpoints. I really enjoyed this walk, as it’s not difficult and, with a picnic, you can relax and enjoy the surrounding nature.
2-3 days in Otavalo is perfect for taking the time to do these outings.
Then it’s back to Quito to head for the Quitumbe terminal to catch a last bus to Latacunga, our next stop. The fare is around $2.50 per person.
Latacunga: a must for some of the country’s most beautiful hikes
Two little wonders lie in the middle of the country:
- Cotopaxi National Park
- Laguna Quilotoa
For these spots, it’s ideal to book accommodation in Latacunga, as the town is halfway between the two. Like Otavalo, Latacunga has nothing transcendent to offer. You just have to remember that it’s a practical place.
Cotopaxi is an ideal destination for hikers of all abilities.
It’s possible to spend several days in the park itself! Covering almost 40,000 hectares, there’s plenty to visit: the volcano’s glaciers, natural lagoons, a refuge, a museum and even ruins! Add to this a flora and fauna that can be observed for hours on end. Indeed, wild llamas and other animals can be seen here (there are even rumoured to be pumas!). As for the birds, if you’re lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of some condors.
We’re not big fans of trekking and hiking, but it’s perfectly possible to climb to the top of the glacier with a professional. We only went as far as the José Ribas refuge, perched at 4,800m, which already offers an exceptional view of the volcano.
After a good Coke tea to combat altitude sickness and a sandwich, we set out to pass the mythical 5,000-meter mark! And we succeeded!
Before venturing into the park or doing any of the climbs, we recommend that you find out about the situation at Cotopaxi volcano, as some of the volcano’s reactivations have restricted entry to the park.
Practical tips from Latacunga: take a bus to Quito from the Latacunga terminal and ask the driver to stop you at the entrance to Cotopaxi Park. The fare is around $1.50 per person.
Then you have to negotiate a pick-up at the park entrance. We were with 2 other Frenchwomen (big up Anaïs and Manon!), so we managed to negotiate 13 euros per person for him to take us first to the refuge (an hour’s drive from the park entrance), and then to the park’s lagoon before taking us back to the entrance at the end of the day.
Laguna Quilotoa: all shades of blue
Further west, the Quilotoa volcano rises to over 3,900 metres. It’s Cotopaxi’s little brother… even if it is 40,000 years old 😉
Over the years, the crater has been transformed into a magnificent lagoon. As the day progresses and the position of the sun changes, the colors change, giving it a unique interest in the world! It’s possible to make a complete tour of the lagoon, but it takes around 4-5 hours, and as we’re not early risers, we arrived at the site too late. So we only made the descent and had lunch on its shores.
It’s also possible to camp by the lagoon, and there are multi-day hikes in the surrounding villages.
To get to the lagoon from Latacunga, go to the bus station and ask for a bus to the lagoon. It’s a two-hour drive and costs $2.50 per person one way.
Along the way, there’s a beautiful viewpoint overlooking the rio Toachi canyon.
Banos, gateway to the Amazon and a wellness break
After all these beautiful hikes, we set off for 15 days of ecovolunteering in the Amazon rainforest in an animal refuge: Merazonia. An article is available to present our stay. Don’t hesitate to check it out. It was a wonderful experience that I really recommend.
After this adventure, we took a week to relax and enjoy the town of Banos. It’s perfect, as it’s renowned for the quality of its thermal waters and the landscapes that surround it. We couldn’t agree more! Even if it’s too touristy for our taste…
Worth knowing:
- For the thermal baths: there are 2 different ones, one much used by locals and the least expensive ($4 admission and open every day). The other is open from Friday to Sunday. At $6 a pop, it’s bigger and has slides, a Jacuzzi, a sauna and a steam room.
- For the waterfalls route: it’s possible to do it alone BUT, for once, I have to admit that tourist transport is really cheap (5 dollars with the various stops at the main waterfalls, and above all less hassle between hitchhiking, local buses that don’t always pass and a dangerous tunnel to avoid on foot).
For many of the waterfalls, you’ll need to pay an entrance fee each time (a few euros). On this route, it’s also possible to go zip-lining or take part in other thrilling attractions. If you like it, now’s the time to treat yourself!
For other things to do in Banos, here are my favourites:
- Get a tattoo at Karlos Tattoo. Sometimes, when you’re on a trip, you feel like engraving a memory forever. I’ve been wanting to get another tattoo for a long time, but when I saw the tattoos done by this tattoo artist on a volunteer in Merazonia, I decided to get one to immortalize our world tour. And I don’t regret it at all! Even though I’m not fluent in Spanish, Karlos listened to me and knew perfectly how to put into images what I had in mind. I hardly felt any pain during the 2-hour session.
- Treat yourself to a massage: many health resorts offer massages at very reasonable prices (around 40 euros). So make the most of this trip to pamper yourself! If you’re looking for a more economical treatment, the best place to go is the thermal baths where the locals go. For around ten euros, you can have your skin coated with a type of clay 😉
- Take a 5 km hike to the heights of Banos: for those on a budget, here’s a great hike to the Mirador Cruz de Bellavista. I can’t remember exactly where it starts, but ask at the hotel and they’ll show you the way. You set off on foot from the town center and make a loop.
Speaking of hotels, I’d like to give our hotel a 300% recommendation. It was the hostal D’Mathias, very close to the bus station and perfectly clean, with a large kitchen for cooking.
The Ecuadorian coast: sea, surf and sun
To continue south to the Peruvian border, we headed for the coast. The easiest way from Banos was to take a night bus. It saves you the cost of a night in a hotel, and time flies – perfect! It costs $13 per person to reach the town of Manta.
The town may not be exceptional, but it’s a good place to make a short stop and avoid a succession of buses.
From there, you can go to Santa Marianita beach. Take the number 1 bus or a cab if you don’t feel like the hassle. You can then take a long walk along the coast to watch the pelicans and other fishing birds.
Puerto Lopez, a must-see for the wonders of Machalilla National Park
Then it was back on the road to Puerto Lopez. The journey takes around 2 hours and costs $4.50 per person.
There’s nothing crazy about the town, but we enjoyed the cool beachside atmosphere and, in particular, the street food dinners in the main square with its food trucks. It’s also the starting point for the incredible sites of Machalilla Park, namely :
- Isla de la Plata. This island is nicknamed “the poor man’s Galapagos”, but to be honest, we have no regrets about our choice. For bird lovers, you’re in for a treat. The island is home to a huge number of blue-footed boobies and superb frigate birds. In fact, it’s the only nesting site on mainland Ecuador for these species. We were there during the breeding season. It was touching to see the babies with their down! After visiting the island, before setting off again, you can go snorkelling with turtles and lots of multicoloured fish. And if you go between June and September, you’ll be able to see humpback whales, which come from the south for the breeding season. For around $35 per person, there’s really no reason to miss out!
- La playa de los frailes and Agua blanca
The two sites are quite close and you can do them in the same day. To get to these spots, we started by taking a bus from the Puerto Lopez terminal, which we asked to drop us off at the entrance to Machalilla National Park, Manabi for the beach. We then hitchhiked to the entrance of Agua Blanca and back to Puerto Lopez in the evening. If you’re not comfortable with hitchhiking, I recommend negotiating with a cab for the day to do both sites.
– Los Frailes is a small, secluded bay with fine grey-white sand. For us, the prettiest beach on the coast. If your legs aren’t too heavy, you can climb up to the mirador for a magical view.
To get to the beach, you’ll need to give your passport numbers, then walk for about 25 minutes. Be sure to bring sun cream and a hat if the weather is fine, as the sun is very strong!
– Agua blanca, named after a sulfur spring on the site, is one of Ecuador’s oldest archaeological sites. A small museum presents its history. The site is self-managed by a community. Admission is $5 per person. We then rented bicycles, as the village with the museum and the lagoon with the sulfur inside is 5 km away.
The small community restaurant opposite the museum serves delicious food.
Montanita, for parties and surfing
After our stopover in Puerto Lopez, we headed south again. By the way, you don’t need to go to the terminal to leave. Go to the Puerto Lopez exit in the direction of Santa Elena, where there’s a bus stop (ask the locals if you can’t find it, but it’s on the main road). This will save you a tuk tuk 😉
We had originally been advised to stay in the small town of Ayampe, but when we stopped off there, we found it very trendy and too expensive for our budget. We met a lot of people who were a bit “perched”… who had the means and the desire to be “among themselves”.
So we put our bags back on our backs and headed for Montanita. And we really liked it, contrary to what we’d heard. We stayed in a small hotel a little off the beaten track, but quietly away from the noise of the party, which is in full swing, especially at weekends.
It was the Montanita Garden Hostel. The owner is adorable, attentive and you can negotiate rates by going directly to her.
The town is a haven for young people who enjoy water sports (towed buoys, surfing….) and partying. Numerous cocktail bars are available to keep the party going all night long.
After another stopover, we headed back to Guayaquil. To avoid long hours of transport, we made a stop in Santa Elena – Ballenita.
Guayaquil: a city with two faces
Like all big cities, Guayaquil has a bad reputation. It is Ecuador’s second most populous city after Quito, and the economic capital.
Before heading off to Cuenca, we wondered if there was any point in visiting it. And afterwards, we can tell you that YES, without hesitation.
Of course, there’s poverty and areas where you shouldn’t set foot (for example, there are some stairs we wanted to take and at the bottom, some locals mimed that it was a “cut-throat” and that we shouldn’t venture down them. So we turned back).
But there are also some very pleasant places to wander around. Among them:
- the parque seminario
This park, located opposite the cathedral, is highly unusual in that it has been invaded by hundreds of iguanas, who live there in complete peace and quiet. Don’t be scared off by these harmless little creatures, who love to eat the fruit and vegetables brought to them by the park wardens.
- The malecon: this is the promenade that runs alongside the Guayas River. 2.5 km long and completely safe, you can stroll along it in complete peace and quiet, and enjoy the gardens, restaurants and other attractions that line it. Day or night, we really enjoyed it.
- Cerro Santa Ana and the Las Penas district: this is Guayaquil’s oldest district. Be careful, it’s a sort of small favela, so be sure to stay on the 456 numbered steps that take you up to the Guayaquil lighthouse and the Santa Ana chapel. From there, you’ll have a lovely view.
If you still have time, you can visit the Parque Histórico. We found the animal cages too small, but with children it can be an interesting outing, even if it’s quite a distance from the city center and time-consuming to get there by public transport.
End on a high note with Cuenca and Cajas National Park: jewels of the country
While preparing our trip, we had read that Ecuador had a very rich festive calendar. Discovering a country also means appreciating the way the locals celebrate. Especially as they often shed light on the country’s habits and customs.
As 90% of Ecuadorians are Catholics, celebrations are very much based on religious events. February, for example, is carnival month, as it ends with the start of the Carême. Another major event is Holy Week at Easter, or the celebration of the dead at All Saints’ Day.
As we were there at the end of December, we were able to discover a very beautiful celebration not to be missed during Christmas in Cuenca: El pase del Nino viajero. This celebration of the birth of baby Jesus is particularly beautiful. Thousands of people, entire families, parade in typical and/or religious costumes (figures from Noah’s Ark, Joseph, Mary, baby Jesus…).
Apart from the fact that my phone was stolen that day because I wasn’t vigilant enough, the party was a great time and I really recommend that if you’re in the country for the festivities, you come to Cuenca to experience it.
But Cuenca is more than just a party. It’s a delight to stroll through its streets. Its superb colonial architecture is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Around the imposing Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, you can take time to relax in the park opposite, or explore the surrounding streets and squares, such as the plaza de las Flores, home to the flower market.
For those with a sweet tooth, I recommend a stop at the chocoletaria Dos Chorreras.
A little further on, you can also have lunch in the mercado 10 de Agosto before visiting the sombrero museum next door. You’ll be able to snap up a famous Panama hat.
Finally, I also recommend these places, which we really enjoyed:
- The free Pumapungo Museum,
- The Turi viewpoint offers a lovely panorama,
- Amaru Zoo, located in a magnificent natural setting, is home to many of the region’s species.
And to end on a high note, we take the bus back to Cajas National Park, another of Ecuador’s favorites. Pack your picnic, choose your level of difficulty and set off for a hike around the pretty lagoons that make up the park.
This 28,000-hectare park boasts over 238 lakes and as many different species of flora and fauna! A feast for the eyes.
That’s it, folks, for this travel diary. I hope you’ve enjoyed it, and that it’ll inspire you to discover this little country, less well known than its neighbors, but just as interesting and rich.
There are two things I would have added to my visit list:
- A visit to the Mindo forest, near Quito. We didn’t have time to do it, but it looks really beautiful, especially if you want to get close to hummingbirds.
- The Galapagos Islands: on a round-the-world trip, we have to make choices. So we reluctantly had to give up the Galapagos Islands, as they represent a real budget, but if you’re coming on vacation and want to treat yourself, especially to see many species of animals, I’d definitely recommend spending a few days there.
If you have any questions or comments, please don’t hesitate to leave me a comment.
