Have you ever tried going to the sun in winter?
This trip to Thailand for New Year’s Eve is my first experience and I have to tell you, it’s incredibly good for the body and mind. Why haven’t I done this before? It’s crazy when you think about it, having waited 38 years to experience this!
In any case, I was used to classic illnesses such as bronchitis, gastro, etc… well believe it or not, with this romantic getaway, I started 2020 without a single germ!
And since I’m all for sharing my good tips, I thought I’d share this natural “medicine” with you 🙂
Apart from the airfare, Thailand is a very affordable country. Even though tourism has driven up prices considerably, the cost of living remains very reasonable. It’s impossible to visit the whole country in 10 days. You’ll have to make choices. For us, the south was the obvious choice, as we were in the mood for beaches and idleness. We’ll definitely be back to visit the north of the country, as we really enjoyed our stay. From the gastronomy to the famous Thai massages, we’re now keen to learn more about the country’s culture and spirituality. And it’s in the north that you’ll find the most beautiful temples and ethnic minorities.
Southern Thailand, between decadence and coolness
To fully appreciate this trip, it was more practical to be a couple, rather than with children. This was not out of selfishness, but simply for two main reasons:
- the first is that celebrating New Year’s Eve in Patong is not recommended with young children. I’ll come back to it later, but I think this town is really for adults only.
- the second is that, to really appreciate the island, there’s nothing better than renting a scooter to visit the various beaches and less touristy corners. Even though Thai people drive very coolly (nothing to do with Bali!), you have to drive on the left, and it’s easier with two people.
Patong: a day and a half, more than enough to recover from jet lag (or not to do if you don’t feel like partying).
So as not to lose any time getting to Phuket, we chose to fly from Paris to Phuket rather than Bangkok. The cheapest flight we found (720 euros) was offered by Etihad (via Abu Dhabi). This was the 2nd UAE airline we tested after Emirates, and to say the least, they’re just as good! A wide choice of films, very comfortable seats and hostesses who looked after us every step of the way.
As soon as we arrived (on the evening of December 31st) at around 6:00 pm, we took a minibus to Patong town center. The fare is 180 Baht/pers (approx. 5 euros). When you leave the airport, you’ll be spoilt for choice for this Phuket-Patong mini-bus transfer.
The only hotel we had booked for our stay was the one for the first night. After that, we decided to look for hotels locally, or via Tripadvisor, depending on what we wanted. But the bad news was that when we turned our cell phones back on on arrival in Thailand, we received a message from Booking telling us that our room had been cancelled and that we’d be reimbursed. Handy with our 2 suitcases on New Year’s Eve! But it took more than that to get us stressed out. So we decided to go to the area where we’d originally planned to stay, and then interviewed three guesthouses before we finally had a room available (within our price range!!).
A solution for every problem! So never panic 🙂 By the way, don’t hesitate to ask to see the room before you pay. To make sure it’s clean and has hot water and air conditioning. The only thing we didn’t check was the street noise! While everything was great, unfortunately there was too much street noise, so I’d rather not recommend it. Even if it didn’t prevent us from sleeping (we were broken!), we would have preferred a hotel with a quieter environment.
By the way, don’t worry, but be warned: the minibus that takes you from the airport doesn’t try to find out exactly where you’re going. Halfway there, it stops at a sort of travel agency, where someone asks you precisely the name of your hotel, and then takes you to it.
After a good shower and a change of clothes, we head for Bangla and Patong Beach to eat and celebrate the New Year.
Clearly we weren’t the only ones who wanted to party here! It was very impressive to see this mass of people on the beach, on Bangla Beach to party… and look shabby 🙁
The lanterns in the sky were great to see, but I had no idea they could be so dangerous! Many of us were very frightened on the sand, as the wind blew the lanterns away, sometimes ending up close to the spectators’ hair… Quite reckless, then, as were some of the firecrackers fired almost at our feet.
Vigilance once again 🙂
And as I said earlier, I really don’t recommend Bangla Road for young children.
It’s quite simply the wildest street I’ve ever seen in my life! 🙁 Women (sometimes very young), stripped naked, swaying in bars, transvestites, ping-pong show boys and girls, and other things that are degrading for women.
I really didn’t like all that, because I thought it was too much. There are far too many middle-aged European men walking around here, alone or with friends. Sex tourism is everywhere, and it quickly becomes a nuisance if that’s not why you’re there. It’s actually quite distressing… Seeing these guys sharing their daily lives with Asian women, in exchange for money, which in my opinion is mainly aimed at exploiting the poverty and fragility of the locals. I’d much rather spend my evenings watching a beautiful sunset than watching chicks trying to get tourists to come to their bar and spend all their money 🙂
The next day, after a good night’s sleep and a good breakfast, we went to enjoy the beaches and find out about diving rates. Yes, for Christmas, I gave my beloved a day of diving 🙂 We’ll talk more about this later, but I’d advise you to wait a bit, as Patong rates are more expensive than those on Koh Lanta. We also found out where we could catch the bus to Phuket Town (my favorite part of the trip!).
Phuket town – a gentle way of life with a New Orleans feel!
For 30 Bath per person, you can borrow a local mini-bus. It runs along the beach and takes you to Phuket town, the provincial capital in the south-east of the island.
What’s immediately striking is the difference between the two! In fact, they’re polar opposites! While Patong is vulgar and kitschy, Phuket town is utterly charming, with a much more chic, family atmosphere. You immediately feel at home. With its colorful colonial-style houses reminiscent of New Orleans, you immediately want to put down your suitcases and stroll through the narrow streets to discover the seemingly paradisiacal surroundings.
If you want a good hotel deal, I recommend two for the price of one 🙂 The first one we spotted was“the neighbors hostel“. Unfortunately for us, it was fully booked 🙁 I’d advise you to book early if you want to stay there.
The second is the one we found a little by chance, but finally “as a matter of course” 🙂 Best Stay Hostel, next to Amore Café!
This youth hostel has just been refurbished. It has a few private rooms and the value for money is unbeatable (400 Bath / night without breakfast). You’ll have to share toilets and showers. It’s very well located for exploring the city on foot, and there are good restaurants nearby for dining and breakfast.
The staff are also very attentive and available. We rented the scooter from them. The person came directly with it to the hotel, and we had to bring it back to the hotel: practical 🙂 For prices, count 600 Baht (17 euros) for 2 days + 50 Baht petrol.
After unpacking, we set off on our first scooter ride.
About 4 km away, on the island of Ko Sirey, we head for Gipsy Village. This is a small animist village. This small community, made up mainly of fishermen and snorkelers, lives in concrete and corrugated iron shacks in very dilapidated conditions.
If you do go, avoid playing tourist. Don’t take photos, be discreet.
Before we got there, we took a wrong turn and stumbled upon a little restaurant lost in the middle of nowhere opposite Laem Tukkae Viewpoint. A nice stop for lunch before Gipsy Village!
On the way back, before heading to Khao Rang for a nice viewpoint, we stopped to feed the monkeys ! 🙂 A very funny place, where a little banana seller is used to supplying tourists and locals with fruit that is quickly devoured by the animals. Be careful though 🙂 Monkeys are still wild animals.
To enjoy the sunset and the view over the town,“Khao Rang Hill” is perfect. You can take a stroll through the park, grab an ice cream, coconut or fresh fruit juice and admire the scenery before heading back to the town center.
The best thing about Phuket Town is that the evenings in the town center are just as lively as during the day. Once again, the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly. And if, like me, you’re a fan of graffiti and urban art, then you’ll be charmed by the art that’s distilled throughout the town and blends very well with the architecture and colors.
Take a look at Chim jae walking street on Thalang Rd. A great place to buy souvenirs.
The next morning, we take the time to eat an excellent breakfast in the coffee shop opposite the hotel: Mame homemade cake.
There’s no better way to start the day than with fresh local fruit juices, exotic fruits such as dragon fruit, and a delicious waffle!
After this first stop, we set off on foot to continue discovering the pretty center of Phuket Town, and in particular certain streets: Thalang Road and Soi Rommanee.
Thalang Road is undoubtedly one of the most charming streets in Phuket town. Its colorful facades, small stalls, souvenir stores and typical cafés make it the liveliest street in town. It’s no wonder that on Sundays, this street is closed to traffic from 4pm to 10pm. Then it’s time for the famous Phuket Walking Street night market, with its stalls selling typical Thai delicacies.
Soi Rommanee: this alleyway links Thalang Road to the south and Dibuk Road to the north. It’s THE favorite street of Instagramers 🙂 and probably the best known. On the one hand, because it’s one of the oldest, but also and above all because its colorful facades and graffiti are very popular with influencers!
At the end of the morning, we get back on our scooters and head for the beaches. Before setting off, remember to apply sunscreen, as the sun is beating down and you won’t be able to avoid sunburn. SPF 30 or 50 is essential.
We start with Kata Beach. It’s a very pretty bay with white sand. The sea is very clear and it has the advantage of many shady palm trees. The real bonus is that on the other side of the road is the Kata Beach Walking Street Market, a sort of market with various stalls offering all sorts of local specialities to sample: from insects to Thai salads and the famous Mango sticky rice🙂 and of course, always fresh fruit juices for a few baht. By the way, if you don’t know what flavor to choose, we’ve fallen head over heels for the lime / passion fruit mix!
After lunch, we stop off at Kata Noi Beach, another pretty beach in the south-west of the island. On the way, we stop at Karon View Point for a magnificent panorama of the bay and a view of the various white-sand beaches.
Continuing our journey towards the south of the island, we stumbled across little Yanui Beach, very cute indeed! If you fancy a kayak outing, this is a great spot!
To round off the day, we head east towards Ra Wai Beach and Chalong Pier.
These places are ideal for watching the sunset or enjoying a drink. Chalong Pier is also the place to book your boat to Koh Lanta. Allow 1000 Bath/pers (approx. 30 euros) for the return trip. Rest assured, these are big boats and I didn’t get seasick at all. A minibus picks you up at your hotel. We chose not to leave too early in the morning. One boat went from Phuket to Phi phi(phi-phi cruiser) and another from Phi phi to Lanta. The timing was a bit tricky, but we managed to do it (while sleeping in :))
On our way back to town, we came across a small local market. We stopped there because we’re fond of this kind of place, deserted by tourists. It’s a great way to get a feel for local life, and to sample the sometimes strange specialties of the Thai people.
The proof is in the sweetened milk drink with the slimy bits inside. Everyone seemed to enjoy this sweet treat… I tasted it myself, but I really wasn’t a fan!
Before talking about our next stop, I have to give you our restaurant tip for Phuket Town 🙂 On our street, at 7 Phangnga Rd, we’ve unearthed a nugget! Tom Yum Goong. Top value for money! When you leave the hotel, turn left, go to the very end of the street and it’s on your right.
The dishes are delicious 🙂 Always remember to ask for little or no spice! But everything is very fresh and very tasty. Plus, there’s free Wifi!
Koh Lanta – an unspoilt haven to recharge your batteries
On this last morning, we try out the breakfast at “The Neighbors” Café, just across the street from our hostel. And to say the least, it’s even better than the previous day’s 🙂 #jaimemonventre.
If only I could find the courage to make this every morning at home, it would be so cool! I swear, fresh fruit, juice and slices of French toast with a drizzle of fromage blanc + cereal, I can go a whole day with that 🙂
Once the minibus has arrived in front of our hotel, it’s time to say goodbye to this pleasant city and take the boat for new adventures! Off to Koh Lanta!
I can see you coming 🙂 No, it’s not the island where the show was filmed! For the record, the reason the game took that name is that the 1st edition in 2001 was filmed on an island located 1h30 south of Koh Lanta: the little archipelago of Koh Rok.
Why did we choose Koh Lanta over Koh Phi Phi?
As I said earlier, we wanted to recharge our batteries during our stay. However, as it’s high season, we avoided the very touristy places (few and far between in the south). Indeed, Koh Phi Phi is something of a victim of its own success, and during the vacation season, as the island isn’t very big, it quickly becomes unpleasant to have the feeling of being all in the same place.
The larger Koh Lanta is surprisingly accessible and incredibly quiet. It boasts beautiful sandy beaches and is the ideal place to go diving or snorkelling, discover the local culture or relax on the beach and admire the sunsets.
When you arrive at Koh Lanta harbor, negotiate with a small tuk tuk to take you to the hotel (allow 300 bath max for the ride :)) and, if you’d like to go diving, ask it to take you to the Blue Planet Divers diving center first!
I wanted to go through this center because it’s run by a Frenchman and the courses and outings are given in French. A real plus and very important for me, as diving remains a high-risk sport. So understanding each other was essential. And honestly, I’ll tell you more about it later, but it was a great day! I really recommend it. Especially as the value for money was, in my opinion, quite reasonable. We booked a day during the week, making sure it wasn’t shortly before our departure (it’s bad to do it before getting back on the plane).
Once this reservation was made, we headed for the hotel. A few days before our arrival on the island, we found a great offer on Trip Advisor. We had managed to secure a sublime room in the Pinky Hôtel. The establishment is part of the Pinky Bungalow Resort and was opened in 2019. Obviously, as it was far from full, we were able to negotiate a great rate (within our budget :)) which enabled us to spend 4 nights there with breakfast included: pure bliss! Because the hotel is ideally located in the middle of the island, it’s easy to get from north to south by scooter.
Then it’s off to a cool evening and day, enjoying the hotel pool (ideal location for a photo shoot :)), the beach, the sunset and a nearby animal sanctuary: Lanta Animal Welfare.
The beach below our hotel is called Klong Khong. You can only swim there at high tide, as the pebbles make it difficult to swim at low tide. But this is where you’ll find the island’s cheapest hotels and bungalows 🙂 (you can’t have everything :)). But the beach is still very pleasant.
Lanta Animal Welfare is a recognized foundation in Thailand, established in 2005.
The foundation’s primary mission was to put an end to the suffering of homeless, abused and injured animals on the island. Today, they can boast of having successfully sterilized and treated over 15,000 animals!
The great thing about the center is that you can spend some time in“kitty city” playing with the cats, or having a coffee in the little restaurant in the middle of the center.
You can also volunteer. In fact, we met a young Frenchwoman who was doing her 1st day as a volunteer 🙂 A humanitarian vacation just the way I like it! Well done to her 🙂 As for me, it’s hard not to fall in love with the dogs and want to bring one back to France 🙁
After that, we headed off to Phra Ae beach (also known as Long Beach) to enjoy the sunset, with a nice fresh fruit juice and pineapple chunks! Paradise exists 🙂 For us, this is one of the prettiest beaches on the island, with its many bars and restaurants. Illuminated at night, it’s the ideal spot for evenings out 🙂
Time didn’t seem to matter, but we didn’t have to wait too long, because the next day we had to get up early for the dive!
As I mentioned earlier, this is the gift I gave my sweetheart (and myself at the same time!!). I chose the full-day package, with two dives + breakfast and lunch included on the boat). It costs around 130 euros per person per day (4300 Baht + 600 for entry to the natural park).
We headed for Koh Haa for the day. The boat was packed with twenty or so people, from those who just wanted to snorkel, to those taking their diving levels, or those like us who dive a few times a year, but are too lazy to take courses! When we arrived on the boat, we were allowed to take a little medicine, which cut out any seasickness: perfect for enjoying the beauty of the scenery to the full and eating, unhindered, on the boat.
This Koh Haa dive site is perfect for beginners, professional divers and snorkellers alike.
In the evening, we celebrated this wonderful day at“the three sisters” restaurant. I advise you to book in advance if you want to try it, as it’s very popular!
For our last day on the island before leaving for Krabi, we rented a scooter near the hotel (for 150 Baht a day) to go on an excursion.
We headed for the east and south, a part of the island that is still largely unoccupied, except by the locals. Our first stop was Lanta Old Town. It’s very cute, with its beautiful shopfronts and souvenir stalls. This small town is rich in eclecticism thanks to its ethnic history: from Chinese merchants to Thai fishing families who have lived here for generations, not forgetting a community of gypsies, all live together peacefully.
At the southern end of the island, you’ll find deserted beaches. On the other hand, there are very few places to protect yourself from the sun. Take care and protect yourself 🙂
In the evening, we headed back to Ban Saladan, Koh Lanta’s main town (where the harbor and diving center are located) to shop for souvenirs and book a minibus to Krabi. Count 300 Baht/pers for the trip, and it picks you up directly from your hotel (convenient!).
We also dined there at a night market offering typical Thai dishes… delicious as always.
Krabi province – a hymn to nature!
Ending my stay with the discovery of Krabi and the surrounding area definitely made me love Thailand. I was so unsure of what to expect in this region that every day my eyes kept going “wow” at the beauty and diversity of the landscape. No wonder it’s been used for so many film shoots, including Fast and Furious 9.
For while the town of Krabi itself is nothing extraordinary, it’s the surrounding area that’s especially rich. Not least thanks to a fascinating geology, with numerous peaks, cliffs dropping into the sea, caves and a sea ranging in color from emerald to azure, with small islands covered in vegetation everywhere.
A real adventure playground for sports enthusiasts like hiking, kayaking and climbing.
The day before our departure, we found a hotel via Booking: the P.N. Boutique House.
Just a stone’s throw from the hotel, we found a scooter rental company.
We’re off on our first excursion: Tiger Cave Temple (Wat Tham Suea)
I’d like to warn you right away: this excursion is an excellent test for the body and mind! I advise you to come mid-afternoon to enjoy the sunset at the summit. It’ll be a little cooler first, so it won’t be so hard to climb the steps. If you’re wearing shorts, you’ll need to rent a small pareo, otherwise pack one in your bag (with water, of course), as this is a religious monument.
The “Tiger Cave Temple” lies at the bottom of a valley surrounded by cliffs and incredible tropical vegetation. Behind the temple are steep stairs that take you to the very top. 1260 steps to climb… but believe me, it’s worth it! Take your time, take regular breaks. The 360° view at the end is breathtaking.
Watch out for the little monkeys at the bottom of the stairs. They are particularly thieving and will not hesitate to climb on your bag if they see you are in possession of food or water.
The next day, after this first sporting escapade, we head back to Krabi province for a new day, which this time will be more about working our arms 🙂
We chose to spend an afternoon kayaking from Pai Plong Beach to Phra nang Cave beach. You’ll need beach shoes, a towel, a swimsuit, water of course, a waterproof bag if possible and your sun cream + cap or bob. Count 800 Baths for a 4-hour rental (2:00 pm to 6:00 pm). This is perfect timing for this trip:
What you’ll love: the absolutely superb scenery: coves with a wide strip of white sand framed by beautiful cliffs and vegetation-covered peaks, perfect spots for rock climbers.
What you won’t like: the incessant noise of the long-tail boats dropping off holidaymakers all day long. It’s a real shame, as it spoils the idyllic picture of paradise.
On the way to the beaches, you’ll love the scenery. It’s impossible not to pause along the way to admire the pineapple fields and tropical vegetation.
After this arm-wrenching outing, we took a well-deserved break to try out the famous Thai massages. Actually, it was mainly my darling who tried them out. I was more interested in having my nails done.
He really enjoyed the moment, but you have to love energetic massages that can even hurt a little. So don’t hesitate to mention it if you have a more sensitive area!
For our last dinner, we went to a great restaurant that we absolutely recommend. It’s D & E’s Jungle Kitchen. Make sure you book well in advance if you want to be sure of getting a seat, as it’s very popular.
Before heading back to our airport in the afternoon, we took advantage of the morning to visit a small temple in Krabi Old Town. The temple’s name is Wat Kaew Korawaram. It’s a landmark in the province as a center for Buddhist ordination and monks. Its distinctive white color and classical architectural style set it apart from other temples. A typical feature is the mythical Nagas, who accompany visitors up the stairs to the temple.
Then it was off to Krabi Walking Street for a final typical lunch.
Finally, we head for the bus terminal to catch our last minibus to the airport. Small public buses in Krabi can take you there for 50 Bahts/pers. There, you can find public buses that drop you off 1 km from the airport for 140 Bahts/pers. And then you’ll have to borrow a tuk-tuk for your last few Baths 🙂
There you have it, folks, you know all about southern Thailand! I hope I’ve inspired you to come and discover this part of the country, and above all to travel a bit like us, like backpackers.
For me, it was a truly exotic and rejuvenating trip.
Finally, here’s a budget summary and some practical information. If you’re missing anything or have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to contact us.
Budget summary (for 2 people) :
- Hotel: 8 nights x 40 euros = 320 euros
- Food: 10 days x 20 euros = 200 euros
- Scooter: 5 x 12 euros (approx.) = 60 euros
- Cab: 100 euros
- Tours/Activities: 50 euros
- TOTAL: 730 euros /2 i.e. approximately 365 euros per person on the spot, with the addition of a ticket at 720 = a trip per person at 1100 euros all inclusive.
Last practical info:
- A gps or internet connection is very important and practical for getting around.
See you soon for new adventures!
