Morocco, a country of contrasts and colors, has always held a special place in my heart. Fifteen years ago, I was captivated by its landscapes and the friendliness of its people when I discovered south-east Morocco, with the Dades gorges and the Valley of the Roses. Since then, my boyfriend and I have made it one of our favorite destinations. So much so, in fact, that we’re even thinking of living there!
On the blog, you can already find my travel tips on Rabat, Meknes, Fez, on the west coast, between Agadir and Essaouria and on a slow travel road trip between Agadir and Sidi Ifni.
This time, I’m taking you with me to the North of Morocco, from Tangier to Tetouan, via the famous Chefchaouen, a real favorite. Ready to make the trip? Follow the guide!
Tangier: a city at the crossroads of cultures
Located in the far north of Morocco, Tangier is a city rich in history and culture. It offers a captivating blend of Moroccan traditions and international influences, not least thanks to its status as a major port and crossroads between Europe and Africa. Every day, many tourists venture into its medina and leave in the evening for Spain. There are connections between Tarifa and Tangier city (the most recommended). FRS is the only shipping company offering round-trip connections between these two ports. There are usually up to 5 departures a day (morning, noon and afternoon).
Often considered the gateway to Morocco and even Africa, Tangier has been influenced by many cultures, including the Phoenicians, Romans and, more recently, Europeans. Its strategic position makes it a commercial and cultural crossroads.
Today, the city is undergoing a major transformation. It has undergone rapid development in recent years, with major infrastructure and urban development projects. The Tangier-Mediterranean port, inaugurated in 2007, has reinforced the city’s position as a major commercial and logistics hub. This modern port attracts international companies and stimulates the local economy.
The city has also seen the construction of new residential complexes, hotels and shopping centers, contributing to its attractiveness as a tourist destination. The “Tangier City Center” project is an example of a development that aims to revitalize the city while preserving its heritage. At the same time, cultural and artistic initiatives have emerged, attracting international artists and events, reinforcing its cosmopolitan identity.
To stay in Tangier, theHôtel Marrakech was recommended to us by Sylvie, an expatriate acquaintance in Morocco. If you’re on a budget, thissmall hotel at the gateway to the Medina will suit you. Ideally located near the Grand Socco, Abdou and Noureddine, the managers, will give you a warm welcome and do their utmost to make your stay as pleasant as possible. The rooms are simple and slightly old-fashioned, but have all the comforts you need to relax after a day’s exploring. A beautiful terrace on the top floor of the establishment offers a view of the medina and the ocean. You could spend hours there, reading a book or sipping mint tea.
If you’re on your own and prefer to meet people in a hostel, then I can only recommend theSocco Hostel. We didn’t get a chance to try it out, but it’s exactly the kind of hostel I’d dream of running or owning. A new-generation youth hostel with cosy beds but a warm atmosphere that invites sharing.
For gourmets, Chez Hassan and Kebdani are a must, offering perfect value for money. If you’re on a slightly higher budget, go to Alma Kitchen, which is more gourmet, but I love it! A modern, spacious concept store. It’s a blend of café, culture, craft store and, above all, local cuisine revisited. The welcome is discreet but very professional. The menu is succinct but varied and, above all, perfectly cooked and seasoned.
Must-sees in and around Tangier
With its rich heritage and dynamic development, Tangier is a fascinating destination offering a multitude of experiences. Whether you’re attracted by history, culture or nature, you’re sure to fall under the spell of its Kasbah, its small medina and its long embankment, inviting you to take a stroll.
In fact, you can stay for 4 or 5 days, to enjoy the city and its surroundings at your leisure.
To do on foot or by small cab in the city
- The Tangier medina.
The medina, with its narrow, colorful streets, is the historic heart of the city. Here you’ll find lively souks, traditional cafés and local artisans.
Spend some time around the Grand Socco, literally “great square”, once the site of Tangier’s main gold market, as witnessed by the jewelry shops still to be found there. Today, it is home to the city’s largest permanent market, on the boundary between the medina, which extends around the Petit Socco, and the new town. Thursday and Sunday are the best days to visit.
- The Kasbah and its palace: my favorite!
If there’s one place I like best in Tangier, it’s this one. Much quieter than the medina, the Kasbah and the old palace are an invitation to stroll and contemplate the ocean and the city, from spectacular vantage points overlooking the port, the medina and the Strait of Gibraltar. The gardens are rejuvenating, and the Moroccan art museum is a wonderful discovery.
The magnificent bougainvilleas that decorate the streets, doors and windows in intense hues are magnificent backdrops and paintings for photography enthusiasts like me.
Nearby, don’t miss the Las Chicas concept store, with its selection of gorgeous local fashions and creations. On your way back down to the medina, stop by the Rock da Kasbah workshop/boutique.
- Tangier beach
The beach is an ideal place to relax, where you can soak up the sun or stroll along the promenade. Seaside cafés offer a pleasant atmosphere in which to enjoy a mint tea. Bear in mind that Moroccan women tend to bathe in burkini bathing suits. So, out of respect for their culture, opt for a one-piece swimsuit or add a pair of board shorts.
To be done in a large cab
- Cap Spartel
At the north-western tip of Tangier (a dozen kilometers from the city), this cape offers impressive panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Strait of Gibraltar.
For the record, it’s the oldest lighthouse in Morocco and one of the oldest in Africa, dating back to 1864. The site is steeped in history. Recently refurbished, the lighthouse can be visited in combination with a magnificent adjoining garden. The visit costs 50 dirhams for foreigners. We preferred to just stroll along the coast rather than pay for the visit and take a photo of the sign indicating the separation between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean.
To get there, you can find large cabs at the top of the Grand Socco, opposite the Mohammed V Mosque. Don’t hesitate to negotiate rates, and tell them you’re going to think about it while pretending to leave, as they’ll see you coming from a distance.
Don’t: personally, I wouldn’t recommend a visit to the Grottes d’Hercule. For me, it’s very expensive for what it is, and a bit of a tourist trap.
Asilah: an artistic getaway less than 3 hours by train from Tangier
While Essaouira is often celebrated for its vibrant ambience and rich historical heritage, Asilah, less than 3 hours from Tangier, also deserves special attention for its unique charm and tranquil beauty. I loved the “arty” and chill spirit that emanates from it.
For less than 5 euros round-trip from Tangier by train, don’t miss this charming trip. Like Essaouira, Asilah has a picturesque medina, but is distinguished by its whitewashed walls adorned with colorful frescoes, giving it a soothing, artistic atmosphere. While Essaouira attracts visitors with its bustling souks and historic port, Asilah offers a more authentic experience, ideal for those looking to recharge their batteries.
The town also boasts beaches, where you can relax and sip mint tea to the gentle murmur of the waves. Asilah is a veritable haven for artists, with its international mural art festival transforming the streets into an open-air gallery every summer. This celebration of art gives the city a unique personality.
Tetouan: a journey through time
Now that you’ve taken the pulse of Morocco and are ready to continue discovering the country, let’s head for Tetouan.
To get there “like the locals”, i.e. by shared cab (large beige cabs) or bus, ask the cab to drop you off at the CTM or OTASSA. Ask for the bus station for Tétouan and they’ll understand.
You can get there for just 35 drhs per person, much cheaper than private tourist transport.
By the way, another tip: when you take a small cab, be sure to ask for a meter rather than a flat rate.
For accommodation, we stayed with Sylvie, whom we met on a Facebook page for French people in Morocco. Locally, you can also find charming riads via booking at quite reasonable prices and with breakfasts included, which are generally a treat!
Tetouan, often referred to as the “White Dove”, is known for its Andalusian architecture and rich history, particularly as the former capital of the Spanish protectorate. Less visited than some of the country’s other cities, it is nonetheless popular with the Moroccan population, as King Mohammed VI regularly vacations nearby in the town of M’diq, where he owns a royal palace. The King likes to embark on his sailboat, the Badis 1, for a trip in the Mediterranean to enjoy the calm of the sea and the beauty of the coastal landscape.
In fact, we had the opportunity to see it for ourselves, as we had unknowingly stumbled upon it at the very moment of the Feast of the Throne.he Feast of the Throne, a national event in Morocco, is celebrated every year on July 30, interspersed with several official and popular ceremonies. This is the anniversary of the King’s enthronement and official allegiance.
This year, it was the city of Tétouan that welcomed the monarch. It was an unforgettable moment, and one that made it all the more worthwhile to understand just how important the king and his family are to the people.
Like Tangier, you can stay 4 or 5 days in Tetouan, enough time to visit the city and explore the nearby towns of Ceuta and Chefchaouen.
For my part, I really enjoyed our walks behind the walls of the medina. It’s one of Morocco’s most beautiful and active medinas, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In front of the gates, in the squares, craftsmen are hard at work: here, a wood painter; further on, in Guersa El Kébira, embroiderers, the “Jebliates”, sell their mendils, pieces of fabric colored red, blue or white. And then there’s the Mellah, the Jewish quarter of the medina, where one jewelry shop follows another, and whose main thoroughfare leads to the Palais Royal, an expression of Hispano-Moorish art.
In fact, I recommend that you take a morning to visit Dar El Oddi, a riad belonging to the El Oddi family, restored and transformed into a cultural space. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 am to 6:30 pm, it costs just 30 dhrs per person. The beautiful rooms house paintings, engravings, prints, old postcards, etc., covering more than 4 centuries of the city’s history. This collection reveals a very wide range of representations of Tetouan through 430 years.
During your stay, if Ican recommend just onerestaurant where you can eat like the locals, i.e. good and cheap, it’s La Hipica. Here, you don’t come for the decor, but for the flavours! You can enjoy tagines, couscous and other fish specialties. The atmosphere is truly typical and local, just the way we like it.
Ceuta: a unique cultural mix
From Tetouan, you can drive to Spain!
Located on the north coast of Africa, Ceuta is a Spanish enclave surrounded by Morocco. The city offers a fascinating mix of cultures, histories and landscapes, making it a destination not to be missed.
Large shared cabs take you there for 20 dhrs per person from Tétouan. Of course, you always have to be patient, as they only leave when they’re full, but that’s part of the charm of the country, isn’t it? We’ve got time! It’s always difficult to find them, but ask at your hotel or ask the locals, specifying that you want to go to Ceuta by large cab. Don’t forget to take your passport with you, as you’ll be crossing a border again.
Once you’ve crossed the border, you can take the bus into the city center. The number 7 bus runs for 85 euro cents per person. Ideally, avoid Sundays, as many stores are closed.
What to see and do in Ceuta
- The ramparts of Ceuta
The historic ramparts, built in the 17th century, offer breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea and the city. Strolling along the walls, you can admire the fortifications and learn more about Ceuta’s military history.
- The central market
Strolling through these markets is always a great experience for local food lovers. You’ll find a variety of local produce, from spices to fresh seafood, perfect for sampling Mediterranean flavors.
- Playas de la Ribeira and del Chorillo
These beaches are ideal for relaxing and soaking up the sun before heading back to Tétouan in the evening. Close to the Mercado Central, it’s a good place to have a picnic and sample all the local specialities you’ll find there.
- Ceuta Marine Park
If you’d like to take advantage of the water park, which looks like it could be fun, book your place in advance, as it’s also very popular with the locals.
- Ceuta Cathedral
Built in the 17th century, the cathedral is a blend of different architectural styles, including Baroque and Neoclassical. It’s a fascinating place to appreciate art and architecture, and to learn more about the city’s religious history.
- The Alameda gardens
These gardens offer a haven of peace in the heart of the city, with beautiful trees, fountains and benches for relaxing. An ideal place for a relaxing stroll.
Chefchaouen: the blue city
To reach Chefchaouen by public transport, simply go to the bus station. For 35 dhs per person, you can reach the Blue City in an hour and a half. I recommend setting off early enough to arrive in the morning and enjoy the quieter, deserted streets with the locals going about their lives.
After that, it’s more complicated to get photos without tourists.
And it’s easy to see why. Chefchaouen, founded in 1471, is famous for its blue-painted streets, a symbol of peace and serenity. It attracts many visitors for its unique atmosphere.
While tourism represents a significant part of the local economy, agriculture and crafts, notably textile production, are also essential. Lose yourself in the narrow streets and contemplate local life as it unfolds before your eyes.
My recommendations: don’t miss Fornaccio Coffee and Kitchen for good coffee and food, and Las Puertas ice cream and juice for delicious home-made ice cream. For a carpet, head to Dar Chefchaouen, where you can admire the women’s work on woven carpets, and fall for one that will become a magnificent souvenir.
Well, folks, we’ve come to the end of our journey. Morocco is a country that never ceases to amaze. Whether through its landscapes, its culture or the warmth of its people. Every corner of Morocco has a story to tell. I hope I’ve inspired you to discover it and experience its riches for yourself.
For more photos, check out my Instagram account!
See you soon!
