Last country of the world tour. We chose to spend just 15 days in India, through Rajasthan. We made this choice to be able to add the Philippines to our trip. We were also a little worried about the heat in July.
While we have no regrets about our choice today, we were totally overwhelmed by India. These emotions are so intense and profound that they’re hard to explain. And against all odds, India is even one of my favorite countries of the round-the-world trip, even though I arrived with many preconceptions.
It has to be said that this country, “you either love it or hate it, but it can’t leave you indifferent”.
It took me a while to get used to the complexity of this culture. But once I’d set off in a rickshaw (tuk-tuk) to discover temples worthy of tales from the Arabian Nights, and had my first breakfasts with naans (local bread) and palak paneer (a vegetarian dish based on spinach), the magic happened.
After that, all we had to do was let ourselves go and meet the Indians, whether on the trains or on our walks, and we fell under their spell.
After Vietnam, India offered us a wonderful end to our trip, and above all an insane desire to return and discover all the riches the country has to offer.
My favorites ♥️ will remain:
– the Taj Mahal of course!
– Jodhpur, the blue city with its fort overlooking the city
– Our time spent with Jai and Neha, two beautiful people we hope to see again one day.
Find out more about our journey and my advice for visiting Rajasthan. Practical information (visa, money, etc.) can be found at the end of the article.
From New Delhi to Agra, landing and acclimatization to the country
Arriving in New Delhi at night, we looked for a hotel close to the airport. To be honest, this is a complicated country when it comes to hotels. Within our budget of around 30 euros max per night for three, it’s very difficult to find a good hotel. The cleanliness of rooms and bed linen often leaves a lot to be desired. You’ll quickly realize this when you look at the ratings on Booking. Another problem is that you can book a hotel, only to find out when you arrive that it doesn’t exist. We experienced this once, and it’s really unpleasant.
So to avoid this, it’s best to budget a little more, or use addresses recommended by guidebooks or Facebook pages like Les Français en Inde.
I’d also advise you to invest in a silk sheet before you leave. It can be useful if you really don’t feel like spending the night in sheets that don’t look clean.
In Dehli, the only hotel we tried out that I can “just about” recommend was the Elevate Hotel. Rooms and breakfasts were decent, with air-conditioning.
Between the airport and the hotel, you can book your rickshaw with UBER! It’s a great way to find out how much a ride will cost. If cabs insist on giving you a lift, you can show them the amount displayed on your cell phone, so they can’t quote you outrageous rates.
After a first night, we took our first steps into the alleys to take the pulse. And to say the least, the Indians are astonishing. It’s very noisy and dirty, with people talking loudly and staring at us. Accustomed to the countries of North Africa and Africa, India is ultimately a mix of the two, developed but with all the behaviors of poor countries.
We take the afternoon train to Agra.
To make sure you have room in the air-conditioned carriages, it’s essential to book your tickets in advance. I advise you to do this as soon as you have your itinerary, for example on the 12 GO applicationor on erail. Alternatively, you can go directly to the station or to one of the small tourist agencies located right next to the stations. Pay close attention to station names, as there may be different stations in different towns. We almost got screwed in Delhi.
For your information, each train is designated by a unique 5-digit number.
For your information, here are the different class categories:
AC 1: 1st class with AC. The best! Cabins with 2 or 4 seats.
AC 2: 2nd class with AC. 4 people per compartment.
AC 3: 3rd class with AC. 4 people per compartment.
These are the ones I’d recommend, as the others don’t have air-conditioning and are much harder to travel in.
Agra is a mythical city and a major tourist attraction, as it is home to the famous Taj Mahal. You can easily spend 3 days here to take your time. We stayed at the Pyrénées Homestay. For the price, it’s fair, but above all it’s ideally located for early morning visits to the Taj Mahal.
Nearby, we had lunch and dinner at a moving place: the Sheroes Hangout café. A restaurant that welcomes women victims of acid attacks. An opportunity for them to raise your awareness of this scourge that still persists throughout the country, and of which women, young and old alike, are victims. Feel free to donate whatever you like at the end of the meal. All the dishes are really excellent.
Before rising at dawn to admire the Taj Mahal, you can start your exploration of Agra with the mausoleum of Itimâd-ud-Daulâ, better known as the “Baby Taj”.
The building was constructed between 1622 and 1628, on the left bank of the Yamuna. It represents the transition between the first Mughal architecture, using red sandstone with marble decorations – like Humayun’s tomb in Delhi or Akbar’s near Āgrā – and the second, whose emblematic achievement is the Taj Mahal. In the middle of each side of the surrounding wall stands, on the cardinal points, a monumental pavilion of red sandstone inlaid with white marble, their symmetrical layout echoing that traditional of Persian mosques.
Art historians sometimes refer to this mausoleum as a “draft” of the Taj Mahal, which explains why it is called the “Little Taj”.
After this visit, stay on this side to admire the famous Taj from a viewpoint:the Taj view point ADA, in Mehtab Bagh Park. You’ll have to pay an entrance fee to get into the park, but I find the view well worth the detour.
The last visit I’d recommend in the city is Agra Fort. This is India’s largest fort, and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983.
The impressive red sandstone walls are 21 metres high and 2.5 km long. There are four gates, the most notable being the Delhi Gate and the Amar Singh Gate.
The site is a precious testimony to Indian architecture. Abul al-Fazl ibn Mubarak listed over five thousand monuments here, although some were destroyed by Shah Jahan to build his white marble palaces. Many buildings were destroyed by the British between 1803 and 1862 to build barricades. Only around thirty Mughal buildings remain in the south-eastern part of the stronghold.
Our feedback on the Taj Mahal visit
The Taj Mahal is open to visitors from dawn to dusk every day except Friday. Tickets can be purchased directly at the Taj Mahal, at one of its three entrances.
The monument has three gates: the south gate, the east gate and the west gate. The south gate has slightly more restricted opening hours, as it is open until 5 p.m. only. There are separate queues for foreign tourists and Indian visitors.
From our hotel, the easiest way was to go through the EAST entrance. To save time in the queue, we took our tickets (site and mausoleum) directly online with our Revolut card to avoid fees. Not all cards work. Don’t hesitate to ask the hotel owner if you have any problems. He can also order you a tuk-tuk for the morning. We recommend that you arrive at the site as soon as it opens, at around 5:30 am. You’ll avoid the crowds and be able to enjoy the site’s unique colors and atmosphere. And you won’t suffer from the heat, which can become unbearable during the day.
Large bags and tripods are not permitted.
As soon as you’ve entered, I recommend you take a few photos, but then head straight for the Taj, and in particular the mosque on the right. From there, with no one around, you’ll be able to get some great shots.
The Taj Mahal attracts up to 4 million visitors every year, making it India’s most visited monument. A true symbol, like the Eiffel Tower in France, the Statue of Liberty in the United States or Christ the Redeemer in Brazil.
This complex architecture is based on a combination of solids and voids, concave and convex elements, and a skilfully orchestrated play of light. The overall effect is one of shimmering, ultra-bright white, contrasting with the pure blue sky.
Construction of the Taj Mahal began in 1632 and was completed in 1648. It wasMughal emperor Shah Jahan who decided to erect a monument in memory of his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died in childbirth at the age of 40 while giving birth to their 14th child after 30 hours’ labor.
Although the mausoleum is the best-known part of the Taj Mahal, this is not the only part. In fact, the Taj Mahal is a complex of buildings, gardens, fountains and other water features, all meticulously symmetrical and set in grounds measuring 305 by 580 meters.
The mosque, main entrance, guest pavilion and outer courtyard were added in 1653. There are also two mosques.
More than 28 types of semi-precious and precious stones are embedded in the walls of the Taj Mahal. The edifice is designed with architectural perfection and incredible symmetry: the 4 sides of the Taj Mahal are identical to give the impression of a mirror-like reflection.
Head for the cities of Jaipur, the “pink”, and Jodhpur, the “blue”.
After these rich days for our taste buds and our eyes, it’s time for us to take the train back to Jaipur for around 6 euros per person.
Jaipur, the pink pearl of India
We found a rather clean hotel, well situated for seeing the sights. It was theShree Narayan Palace Hotel. We didn’t try out the hotel restaurant. However, we really enjoyed the Indian Curry Palace, a 5-minute walk away. You don’t have to be in a hurry, but the food is tasty and very fresh.
The state capital may not be very pleasant to live in, but it offers a true concentration ofRajput heritage. Created from scratch in the 18th century by Maharaja Jai Singh II, it is surrounded by ramparts. In 1876, to give a fitting welcome to the Prince of Wales, the future Edward VII, the Marahaja had the ramparts, palaces and houses repainted in a warm, luminous pink ochre hue. A tradition that continues to this day, giving the city a beautiful unity of tone that lights up at sunset.
Jaipur’s wide avenues are home to a few noisy, colorful covered bazaars, but above all to the City Palace, which houses the Maharaja’s palace and the Palace of the Winds, known as “the Hawa Mahal”. It’s impossible not to be captivated by its magnificent pink sandstone façade. Like a gigantic 5-storey openwork screen, it features a series of protruding balconies enclosed by clerestories. These windows enabled the ladies of the court to watch the street spectacle and the processions without being seen.
The buildings were constructed from the 18th to the early 20th century, with a blend of Mughal and Rajasthani architecture. It is linked by esplanades featuring pavilions. The various parts of the museum house collections of clothing, textiles and weapons. There’s also a vast hall where the ruler of Jaipur used to hold audiences.
Hawa Mahal or the “Palace of the Winds” is considered one of the marvels of Rajput art, and certainly one of India’s most famous monuments. Despite its breathtaking architecture, Hawa Mahal is essentially a lacy, openwork facade that’s impossible to miss: 15 m high and five storeys with 953 windows and balconies.
The building was designed to circulate air and bring a certain refreshment to the women of the Zenana (Hindu harem), and also to enable them to see and participate in the life of the city without being seen. The word Hawa, by the way, refers to the breeze that gently seeps in through the window openings, as if through a vaporous curtain that lets in the cool of the night.
After the tour, if you’re feeling peckish, you can have lunch at the Shri Gopi Pavithr Bhojanalay. It’s simple but very good, and many locals drop in.
Then you can go to Nahargarh Fort (200 rupees for adults), a nice walk, less touristy than Amber Fort but with lovely views over the city.
The next day, you can head for Amber Palace.
On the road leading to the fort, you’ll see a delightful palace that seems to float on water. This is the Jal Mahal, the summer palace of the maharajas of Jaipur on Sagar Lake. Built in the 18th century in the Indo-Muslim style, it has undergone meticulous restoration to become a luxury hotel. It is not open to the public, but can be admired from the riverbank. It’s a lively place for Indian families to stroll in the evening or at weekends. In the late afternoon, the palace’s facade is reflected on the water, illuminated by the setting sun.
Amber Palace is a veritable fortress anchored to the hillside above Jaipur. For nearly three centuries, this palace was home to one of Rajasthan’s most sumptuous courts.
As you pass through the Sun Gate, you’ll discover the various audience halls and flat-roofed Mughal-style pavilions. This time, we recommend you take an English-speaking guide to help you understand the history of the site.
Once again, we’ve had a feast for the eyes and all our senses. Now it’s time to head for Jodhpur, the “blue” city.
Jodhpur, the blue beauty
Jodhpur is one of Rajasthan’s most beautiful cities. In addition to the old town with its many blue-painted houses, Jodhpur boasts one of Rajasthan’s finest forts, the Mehrangarh Fort.
To make the most of the city, we stayed at Anne Guesthouse. A house run by Ilou and her family. Ilou goes out of her way to make your stay as magical as possible. She prepares meals, does your laundry, gives you henna tattoos…
The location is ideal for visiting the fort, and taking the narrow streets down to the old town. And it’s well worth it, because the streets are full of life. You’ll see locals going about their daily lives, as well as craftsmen at work and cows, as is often the case in India.
If you’re a photography enthusiast, you’re in for a treat – these alleyways are very photogenic.
Take the time to stroll through the Sadar Bazaar, the city’s main market. Located around the Clock Tower, you won’t want to miss it. It’s the heart of the old town. For lunch, head up to the top floor to find Dylan restaurant. The food is delicious!
To discover the imposing Mehrangarh fortress, set off after breakfast through the gite door. Despite its severe appearance, the fortress contains sumptuous works of art, richly decorated rooms, frescoes and sculptures of great finesse. The view of the city from the balconies is splendid.
Bikaner, the purple city, and Delhi to end the trip
After Jodhpur, train journey to Bikaner, a typical, lively desert town often shunned by travellers who prefer Jaisalmer.
If Jaipur is the pink city and Jodhpur the blue city, the color of Bikaner is bright purple. With its rich heritage, history and nearby sand dunes, it’s no surprise that Bikaner is also known as “camel country”.
Bikaner’s history is linked to one of Rajasthan’s most illustrious characters. Rao Jodhaji, the founder of Jodhpur, had five sons. One of them, Rao Bika, didn’t want to inherit his father’s kingdom. So he went his own way to create his own. He founded the city of Bikaner in what was an oasis in the Thar desert. The oasis was ideally situated on trade routes and Bikaner grew rapidly. Its strategic location made Bîkaner a prosperous city, as evidenced by its beautiful fort and numerous palaces.
Bikaner is an ideal base from which to set off on a desert safari and discover a strange temple where rats are worshipped! This monument is located in Deshnok.
As my darling is terrified of rats, it was impossible for us to go there. Yet this unique temple, located just a few kilometers from Bikaner, is surely the strangest and most interesting place in the region. And for good reason: the Karni Mata Temple is home to thousands of rats!
Pilgrims flock from all over the region to worship these rodents. Legend has it that the goddess Karni Mata lived to be 150 years old and remained young and beautiful to the end of her life. After her death, legend has it that she was reincarnated as a rat. Her followers believe that once they die, they will follow the same path. Once reincarnated as a rat, the cycle reverses and the next life will be as a human being… And so on!
These rodent saints are therefore venerated by their followers as if they were their ancestors.
This belief comes from a period when a plague epidemic ravaged the region. Only the town of Deshnok was spared.
Another must-see in Bikaner is the Junagarh Fort, the city’s most imposing building. The fort’s foundations date back to 1478. Inside, you’ll find palaces, gardens, chiselled balconies and small kiosks in a stunning architectural style.
There are Mughal, Gujarati, Rajput and even Western influences. 16 generations of Maharajas have succeeded one another in power, each adding their own “personal touch”. In the end, it’s full of color, marble and gold.
Finally, don’t miss the Havelis district. When we took the train into town, we had the good fortune to meet Neha, a young woman who was happy to guide us through the narrow streets of her town. As luck would have it, Neha’s accommodation was close to this district. It was an opportunity for us to combine business with pleasure, spending some time with her and her grandmother, and discovering the Havelis.
Havelis are aristocratic houses built by wealthy merchants. They are known for their many windows and rich decorations. The Rampuria Havelis are the most famous example of this style. Built by three brothers of the wealthy Rampuria family, these seven houses on the same streets are constructed from reddish-purple Dulmera stone.
The last thing you can visit if you still have some energy left before setting off is Lalgarh Palace and museum / Laxmi Niwas.
On your way back to Delhi, before catching your flight, don’t miss these 4 striking and moving places:
- Gandhi Smriti, formerly known as the Birla House. This is the house where Mahatma Gandhi spent the last 144 days of his life and was assassinated on January 30, 1948. Now transformed into a museum dedicated to Gandhi, the house is located on Tees January Road, formerly Albuquerque Road. The museum is very rich and interesting. In particular, you’ll be able to see his famous spectacles, and learn more about his life thanks to the many multimedia exhibits.
- The Akshardham temple
It’s a Hindu temple complex in the heart of New Delhi that represents some 10,000 years of Indian culture through the ages in all its splendor, grandeur and beauty. Overlooking the magnificent Lodhi Garden, this temple complex showcases the true essence of ancient Indian architecture and spiritual traditions.
Photos inside the temple are forbidden, which is a pity, as I find it as beautiful as the Taj Mahal! You can leave your belongings in a locker for the duration of the visit, and then eat at the site, which offers local lunches at very reasonable prices.
- Humayun’s tomb
For those not lucky enough to make it to Agra to admire the famous Taj Mahal, Humayun’s tomb is surely the closest thing to it. Built in the mid-16th century, it was surely the inspiration for the famous palace.
Humayun’s Tomb is a complex of Mughal architecture. The site houses the tomb of Emperor Humayun and 150 members of the royal family, hence its nickname the necropolis of the Mughal dynasty.
After his death in 1556, Humayun was initially buried at the Purana Qila in Delhi. Fearing that his tomb would be desecrated by King Hemu, who had just defeated the Mughal armies, Akbar ordered his father’s remains to be moved to the Punjab. Nine years after the emperor’s death, his first wife Biga Begum decided to build a new, far more sophisticated tomb in tribute to her husband.
The 13-hectare garden surrounding the tomb has changed considerably over the centuries. For five years, Humayun’s tomb housed tens of thousands of people, causing considerable damage to the Persian garden and the main buildings.
The complex was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. From then on, restoration of the site intensified.
Extensive archaeological excavations carried out by the Archaeological Survey of India and the Aga Khan Trust for Culture have restored the Persian gardens and many of the complex’s monuments. Over 2,500 trees and plants were replanted to cover the 12 hectares of the original garden. The restoration was completed in 2003.
- Khari Baoli
For souvenirs and spices, head to Khari Baoli. This is Asia’s largest spice market. You’ll find nuts, herbs, Chai Latte replicas and foodstuffs such as rice and tea. The market is located near Old Delhi’s historic Red Fort.
Practical information to prepare your trip
- Time difference with India: +4.5 hours in winter and +3.5 hours in summer.
- Population and language in India
With 1.4286 billion inhabitants on April 15, 2023, India is the most populous country in the world, ahead of China. The majority language is Hindi, the official language alongside English. - Religion in India. Over 79% of Indians are Hindus. More than a religion, Hinduism is a system within which society is divided into hereditary and hierarchical communities: the castes. Today, the Muslim community accounts for almost 17% of the total, compared with 14% for Christians, Sikhs, Buddhists, Jains, Parsis and Jews.
- VISA. As a reminder, French nationals need a visa to visit India.
This “e-visa” must be applied for online, after registering the application on the website and paying the processing fee. You will then receive an electronic travel authorization, which you will need to present at the airport of arrival to obtain a visa in your passport. Applications can be submitted up to 120 days before departure. The visa issued on arrival is valid for 60 days. - Habits and customs
Avoid revealing clothing for women. Dress decently when visiting temples or mosques. When traveling as a couple, great discretion is required regarding gestures of affection in Indian public places. - Vaccination. Ask your doctor or an international vaccination center for advice, but rabies vaccination may be proposed, as many stray dogs are carriers of the disease. For stays in rural areas, vaccination against Japanese encephalitis may be necessary.
- Currency in India. The national currency is the rupee. You can change euros or dollars on arrival at the airport in the cash dispensers and exchange offices.
- Best season to visit India. The climate throughout India is tropical, except in the Himalayan regions of the far north. Winter, or the dry season from mid-October to March, is considered the best time to visit India. The weather is dry and sunny and temperatures rarely exceed 25°C. Spring from March to the end of May is wetter in the south, with temperatures rising above 35°C. Summer, from June to September, is very wet in the east, a little less so in the west and center, but hardly at all in the south, where the rains arrive in October and November.
That’s it for this article on India, the last bewitching country of our beautiful world tour. One thing’s for sure, we’ll be back to explore even more spiritual regions.
If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me. So don’t hesitate to drop me a line.
See you soon for new adventures!
