It’s hard to find anything positive to say about this global epidemic that has turned our lives upside down. And yet! Not being able to travel around the world as we like to do has enabled us to rediscover the riches of our country. It was during the February vacations that we felt the need to leave Nantes to get some fresh air and admire other landscapes.
With no possibility of going to winter sports, the idea of going to the Auvergne seemed like a good idea. Not too far away by car (around 5h30), the opportunity to visit friends, go for walks and sample the local gastronomy.
It’s a region I didn’t know much about, because when I was younger, with my parents, who were keen hikers in the high mountains, we mainly went to the Pyrenees or the Alps. It was only with my boyfriend that I started to go there, at first for ski courses or weekends with our friends.
And yet, it really is an unmissable corner of France for all lovers of the great outdoors. A stay in the Auvergne promises incredible panoramas, right in the heart of nature.
Of course, you won’t be able to do everything in one week. It’s up to you to choose what appeals to you most, but in this article I’d like to introduce you to the program we did, which is just as suitable for a couple as it is for a small family. We stayed in just one département: the Puy-de-Dôme.
Accommodation in Puy-de-Dôme
For accommodation, we stayed with friends near Clermont-Ferrand for the weekend, and for the week we opted for AirBnB. We were won over by the house in Olloix belonging to Carole, a former Koh Lanta contestant, both because of its ideal location for visiting the Puy-de-Dôme and because of our host’s personality. Her house is right in the heart of nature. A haven of peace and happiness for those who want to relax and recharge their batteries. Ski resorts are only 30 minutes away.
To stay at Carole’s is to fall under the spell of her endearing, generous, caring and energetic personality! Carole has a big heart and welcomes her guests in all simplicity. She answers with transparency and honesty all the questions we have about her career, not just Koh Lanta, but above all her sporting career! That’s right, Carole is a former world fencing champion! Her home is just like her, simple and warm. The cats who live in the house are very endearing too 🙂
In your room, you’ll find a few souvenirs of this extraordinary adventure.
We’d like to thank her once again for her warm welcome and we’ll definitely be back to discover more of Auvergne’s wonders. Carole was a perfect guide. She recommended some very nice walks, which we’ll be looking at next.
My must-sees in Auvergne
Clermont-Ferrand
The historic capital of the Auvergne region, and chief town of the Puy-de-Dôme département, was born of the union of two rival cities, Clermont and Montferrand, in 1630.
Clermont-Ferrand is very pleasant to visit. I don’t know why, but the city reminded me of Strasbourg! Perhaps because of its original cathedral (Notre-Dame de l’Assomption), which owes its black color to the lava stone used in its construction, sourced from Puy de la Nugère. It is the tallest lava-stone cathedral built in France.
Beyond this monument, the architectural heritage is surprising, with many grey facades and well-hidden treasures.
In addition to the cathedral, here are a few other must-sees:
- Notre-Dame du Port Basilica
Just a stone’s throw from the cathedral is the Notre-Dame-du-Port basilica. This building, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of Auvergne’s principal Romanesque churches.
- Place de Jaude
This square is the most popular and largest in Clermont-Ferrand. It’s the place to come for shopping, or to admire the sumptuous lighting effects at night.
- The medieval quarter
It’s impossible to visit Clermont without taking the time to stroll through the medieval quarter. This is one of the oldest medieval quarters in France. Here you can admire the facades of splendid townhouses and mansions dating from the 18th century.
- The FRAC Auvergne
It’s a shame we didn’t have time to visit the collections of the Fond régional d’art contemporain, but if, like me, you’re passionate about this type of art, it’s a must-see address, especially as admission is free.
- Lecoq garden
Need a little siesta? Then head for this five-hectare park, with its ornamental pond, English garden and pretty lawns ;).
- L’Aventure Michelin
It’s hard not to hear about the Michelin brand if you’re in the area. The world’s leading tire manufacturer is headquartered here. In fact, you can follow an exhibition on the history of this French company and its various innovations in transport, through films, vehicles and very interesting reconstructions.
- Vulcania
Ideal for families, the Vulcania theme park is just twenty minutes from the town. It’s the best-known attraction in the Auvergne region.
If you don’t have time for the park, head to the Puy de Dôme for a spectacular view of the chain of volcanoes. To reach the summit, you can take the Panoramique des Dômes cogwheel train.
Le Puy Pariou
Le Pariou is the second most visited site in the Puys chain, after the Puy de Dôme.
A large parking lot is located to the north of the D941, between the Fontaine du Berger and the Col des Goules. Crossing the road, you come to a path where you can choose between two routes to the summit. To the right, the path climbs through undergrowth along the volcano’s northeast flank; at the end of the forest, you’re almost immediately on the rim of the crater. On the left, the route is divided into three parts: an almost flat passage through the forest, a wide climb to the pass that separates the Pariou from the Puy de Dôme, and an ascent up an oak staircase on the eastern flank of the cone to the crater rim.
Le Mont Dore and its great waterfall
As a mountain and spa resort, Le Mont-Dore is the crossroads of numerous activities for families and couples to enjoy in all seasons.
In winter, Le Mont-Dore is a family-friendly winter sports resort with slopes suitable for all skiers and snowboarders, from beginners to experts. The area is also perfect for long snowshoeing or cross-country skiing trips.
In spring, it’s impossible to miss the Grande Cascade! This not-to-be-missed1.5-hour round-trip hike is perfect for a breath of fresh air, with lovely views of the Puy de Sancy.
Access to the site and departure are from the corner of the spa building (rue des Déportés). Take the staircase to the right of the spa, which climbs to reach the Melchi-Rose path (yellow markings). Follow this to the Route de Besse, cross it and take the Chemin de la Grande Cascade.
You can then take the hiking trail through the undergrowth to the waterfall, the highest in the Auvergne region, with a drop of around 30 metres. At the foot of the waterfall, you can cross the metal footbridge and climb the staircase to reach the Durbise plateau. Return by the same route.
Good to know:
- For the more courageous, from the plateau you can reach the crests of the Sancy via the GR.
- Make sure you’re well equipped and check the weather conditions before setting off.
Orcival and its basilica
Orcival is a charming mountain village built around its basilica: Notre-Dame d’Orcival. Dating from the 12th century, it is one of the five major Romanesque churches in Auvergne. Its famous Madonna has been celebrated for millennia, particularly by pilgrims on Ascension Day. The village is an ideal base for a stroll around Lac de Guéry, for example. When the weather’s fine, I recommend a visit to the little stores for a sandwich, a slice of quiche or a homemade dessert from the local merchants. A real treat 🙂
The commune is ideally located, in the St Nectaire zone, on the Auvergne cheese route. The Cap Guéry mountain center offers a wide range of leisure activities, including hiking, fishing, climbing, mountain biking and Nordic skiing.
Guéry, Servières and Godivelle lakes (upper and lower lakes)
I was impressed during my stay by the beauty and the presence of numerous lakes in the region.
- First of all, the Lac du Guéry. This listed site was created by a basaltic lava flow. It is the highest lake in the Auvergne, at an altitude of 1250m. It’s easy to walk around the lake and the walk is very pleasant, with a section in the woods. I recommend a morning out.
- Then there’s Lac de Servières. Slightly lower down, at an altitude of 1202 meters, it was formed in the crater of a volcano.
This is one of my favorites of the trip! We did the walk on a cloudy day, and the atmosphere around the lake reminded me of a Canadian landscape! On one part of the lake, you can walk over a peat bog, with its preserved flora and fauna.
- The Godivelle lakes. Here again, you wonder whether you’re in France or Scotland, in the highlands 🙂 The view from the top is just breathtaking.
The Valley of the Saints at Boudes
My favorite walk of the week! As with the rest of the walks we did all week, I escaped for a day, this time feeling like I was in the USA, in the national parks! This “Colorado auvergnat” is made up of magnificent red clay chimneys.
To find your way around, head for the small village of Boudes. At the entrance, you’ll find a parking lot. Park your car and head for the market hall, where the start sign is located. Turn left into the main street. At the fork in the road, turn left into rue du Coufin. At Place de la Mairie, turn left into Rue des Forts. At the fountain, keep right, then turn left into rue du Theur, signposted “sentier des cheminées de fées”. After the bridge, turn right towards “la Vallée des Saints”.
PRACTICE: remember to buy sandwiches in a nearby commune because there are no small shops here.
La Bourboule and local specialities
Because there has to be a little disappointment, La Bourboule was my least favorite part of the week. Perhaps because the town seems to have stopped in time. From the decrepit stores to the ageing hotels, you get the feeling that La Bourboule was once a thriving town, but that those days are long gone.
On the other hand, it’s a nice place to stop if you want to pick up some local specialities:
- Truffade: a hearty dish based on potatoes and local cheese 🙂
- Charcuterie, potée auvergnate, tripoux (a traditional dish based on stuffed veal or lamb belly)
- Aligot (a kind of purée/cheese) and, of course, all the region’s cheeses! There’s something for everyone – you won’t be able to resist!
There you are, my friends, I hope you’ve enjoyed this article and that it’s inspired you to come and discover the volcanoes and all the riches of the Auvergne.
As always, I’m happy to receive your questions and comments, which I always enjoy reading.
Take care of yourself.
