When we were thinking about the dreams we wanted to realize during our round-the-world trip, living the “Dias de Muertos” in Mexico was an obvious choice for me.
Some cultural festivals are so important to a country that you want to experience them to better understand them. Such is the case of Holi in India, the festival of colors, or Carnival in Rio. The Festival of the Dead was the one I most wanted to discover.
When and how is the Day of the Dead celebrated?
Throughout Mexico, Dias de los Muertos are traditionally celebrated on November 1 and 2. However, don’t hesitate to ask, as depending on the city, there may also be celebrations and parades organized as early as October 28 or 29.
If during the day we like to stroll around the town, have our make-up done and take photos of the most beautiful costumes, it’s especially in the evening that the “party” takes on its full meaning. At the end of each day, various neighborhood parades are organized, and everyone takes pleasure in following the procession in good spirits.
Then, at night, we go to the cemeteries and their surroundings to take the pulse and be moved.
- Colorful, festive cemeteries
Throughout the festive days, families clean the graves, decorate them with flowers and candles, and eat and drink beside them in the cemeteries. It’s not surprising that someone will invite you to share a glass, a beer or a mulled wine so that they can introduce you and pay their respects to the person who has died. While we’ve enjoyed seeing this tradition for ourselves, and find it particularly beautiful, we’ve sometimes felt “out of place” in cemeteries, especially when tourists arrive in buses to wander around and take photos like a simple tourist visit. Perhaps it’s also because in France we’re more accustomed to restraint and discreet contemplation, among family members alone.
The night of November 1 is dedicated to the souls of deceased children.
The night of November 1 to 2 is an emotional one, dedicated as it is to missing children. Sadly, this loss is not a natural part of life, and is more painful to accept. And yet, as tradition dictates, the family makes this a joyful time, just as children are in life. So it’s hardly surprising to see toys, sweets and children’s drawings around the portrait of the departed angel on the graves. Flowers are also present, of course, but white is the color of choice among the candles.
The night of November 2 is dedicated to adults who have died.
Just like children, the altars and graves of the deceased are filled with offerings that symbolize their life on earth. These may include mezcal, a local spirit, cigars, musical instruments, tools, hats, books or objects representing a loved one’s trade or passion. Candles and flowers bring a note of hope and joy to this communication with the dead.
- The importance of altars
At this time of year, an altar is set up in every home, business or public place, decorated with objects that belonged to the deceased. Offerings are placed next to the photo of the deceased: sugar skulls, the traditional “pain de los muertos ” (bread of the dead), dishes enjoyed by deceased loved ones, and usually alcohol such as tequila or mezcal. Candles are also lit, as their light is said to guide souls back to their loved ones. Another custom is to deposit a glass of water and salt. The water represents the purity of the soul. The salt is used to purify the soul of the deceased so that it can return the following year.
- Indian carnations or cempasuchil for graves, stores and altars
These flowers are one of the best-known symbols of Día de Los Muertos. Themarigold is the official emblem, helping to guide the soul of the deceased to the altar. That’s why they’re everywhere. The petals are scattered from the altar to the graves or along a path.
The flowers are also used for natural wreaths worn during festivities.
- La Catrina, emblematic figure of Dia de muertos
It’s impossible to miss her, because she’s everywhere. In Mexico, the Catrina is a key figure in the November celebrations, as she not only represents death, but is also part of Mexican folklore.
The Catrina was not originally a representation of death. She was created by Mexican cartoonist José Guadalupe Posada to mock high society and its manners. His character, depicted as an elegant female skeleton, wears a large hat. La Catrina, by the way, wasn’t originally called that, but “la calavera garbanzera”, which literally means “the hick skull”. It was intended as a satire, a caricature.
The term Catrina only came into use later, when Diego Rivera depicted her in his painting Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central. The Catrina is shown standing in the foreground, wearing a feathered hat, boa and beautiful dress. She is holding hands with Diego Rivera, who has portrayed himself as a young boy. Behind her is the painted face of Frida Kahlo, and on the other side, her creator, José Guadalupe Posada.
Where to celebrate the dead? My experience of Dias de Muertos in Oaxaca
We have chosen to celebrate Dias de los Muertos in Oaxaca for several reasons:
- Firstly, because we had my husband’s cousin living there,
- Secondly, because I had read on numerous forums that Oaxaca was one of the cities with the most beautiful markets to buy festive objects and the most beautiful altars. The city is not lacking in charm either, which is a real plus when you’re staying there for a few days. There are many monuments, districts and museums to visit.
Among my favorites are visits to markets such as November 20, ideal for lunching and sampling local specialties like mole negro or tlayuda.
Beyond the Zocalo, I also really enjoyed the free San Pablo cultural center. It features some very fine contemporary works of art, as well as the atypical philatelic museum, which is a must-see. Its garden in particular invites you to relax and take a break.
As a fan of street-art, I’ve fallen in love with the Jalatlaco and Xochimilco districts (which are perfect for the November 1st evening stroll through the narrow streets and adjoining cemetery).
Near Oaxaca, natural sites also make great excursions. The one I found most beautiful, despite the tourists, was Hierve El Agua.
To get there on your own rather than with a group of tourists, simply go to the second-class train station (central de abasto, 68090 Oaxaca). You ask for a bus to Mitla for 20 pesos per person, after which a pickup takes you to Hierve El Agua for 75 pesos per person.
Make-up during Dias de los Muertos
For two days, I chose to have my face painted. All over the city center you can find people offering to do your make-up. I preferred the girls who offered a combo of make-up and natural flower headbands with marigolds. The price of the make-up is very reasonable: 200 pesos + 100 pesos (15 euros) in total with the crown. On the second day, as there were three of us having our make-up done, we were able to negotiate 150 pesos per make-up.
For the models, it was only natural for me to use the makeup done on the sublime Julie Sarinana, aka Sincerely Jules, an instagrammer I’ve been following on Instagram for a very long time and who is originally from Mexico. For the Feast of the Dead, she always wears gorgeous costumes and her make-up looks incredible.
Other places in Mexico recommended for Dias de Muertos
If you’re not in the Oaxaca region for the Festival of the Dead, don’t worry, I also recommend these places in Mexico:
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Mexico City: for its fashion show
If you like crowds and parades, you’ll love Mexico City! Did you know that before 2015 there was no such thing as a Day of the Dead parade? Thanks to the filming of the James Bond movie “Spectre”, which included a parade scene, the city decided to repeat the event every year, given the enthusiasm it generated. And it seems they’re pulling out all the stops, since it attracts over a million Mexicans and foreigners. The costumes of the extras are apparently incredible. As the date changes every year, I recommend that you follow the country’s news or go to the “French in Mexico” Facebook page to find out the exact date.
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In Patzcuaro in the state of Michoacan, where tradition is more deeply rooted
Apparently, this state is the place where the tradition of the Day of the Dead is most important and deeply rooted in local culture. While the island of Janitzio is very famous and attracts thousands of visitors, the small towns and villages around Lake Patzcuaro are preserved from mass tourism.
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In Pomuch in the state of Campeche, for the creepiest of traditions
Are you a horror movie fan? In this small town, the locals have a tradition of literally digging up corpses to clean their bones. Sure, it’s creepy as hell, but it’s obviously practiced with a great deal of respect and love.
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In Mérida, Yucatan, to celebrate “Hanal Pixan”.
In the cultural capital of Yucatan, the festival is not called Dias de Muertos, but “Hanal Pixan” (food for the spirits). Unlike other states, here it is customary to have an extra place setting on the table beyond the altar, in honor of the deceased. A traditional Yucatan meal, “El Mucbipollo”, is also prepared for this feast.
What to do before and after the Festival of the Dead around Oaxaca and Mexico City?
If you’re vacationing in Mexico and you’re in the Oaxaca and Mexico City area, I want to share with you what we enjoyed most during our road trip:
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Puerto Escondido for surfing on the famous Zicatela beach
While there’s nothing really charming about the town, as a board sports fan I really loved the spirit and good vibes of punta Zicatela and Carizalillo beach.
To get there, you can take a bus, but I’d prefer to warn you that the road is full of bends. We didn’t get sick, but it was borderline!
For a 2-hour surf session with an instructor, count 650 pesos.
We also dined in a very good restaurant: terrazza zicatela, I highly recommend it, especially its cocktails 🙂
If you want to go all the way down to Mazunte, no problem, but I’d recommend just one day, as the town is small and there’s not much to do in my opinion, apart from visiting the turtle protection center?
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Puebla, a very pretty stage on the way back to Mexico City
Puebla lies between Oaxaca and Mexico City. Count on 300 pesos per person for a bus to get there (+ approx. 150 pesos for a cab if your accommodation is in the center, as the terminal is off-center). The road to Puebla is very pleasant to admire, with a succession of mountains covered in long, vertical cacti.
Puebla is a superb cultural destination and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its historic center features major religious buildings such as the cathedral, the chapel del rosario, the churches of Santo Domingo and San Francisco, and the Jesuit church. Even though I’m not particularly fond of museums, I have to admit that the Amparo Museum totally won me over, thanks in particular to its panoramic terrace and free admission!
For the record, Puebla was the first city in Mexico to be built entirely by and for Spanish colonists, in 1531. That’s why it’s brimming with historic monuments of colonial and baroque charm.
Around the Zocalo, various pedestrian lanes such as Calle de los dulces (the street of delicacies :)), as well as a covered inner passageway, invite you to stroll.
Don’t miss the Calle de los sapos, the Barrio del artista and the secret tunnels leading to the Xanenetlan district (for street art fans, visit Calle 4 norte and the Santa Ines church). Don’t go beyond this area, as it’s not particularly recommended, especially in the evening.
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Mexico, the beautiful surprise
Sometimes, when you’re planning a trip, certain websites or blogs literally give you the creeps. They say you shouldn’t take the Mexico City metro, or be too careful with your belongings. So when I arrived in the Mexican capital, I wasn’t exactly reassured.
I was pleasantly surprised by the diversity of the city and the multitude of things to see and do, without ever feeling unsafe.
On Sundays, for example, we loved doing what the locals do and strolling through the Chapultepec bosque with its free zoo. Like Central Park in New York, the greenery and squirrels invite you to take a stroll. It’s great fun to stop and watch the clowns perform, to the delight of young and old alike.
Another great discovery is the Xochimilco district, “the Venice of Mexico”, with its floating gardens and a trajinera ride. A good idea is to take a boat on the way and negotiate the hour-long ride: we managed to get one for 300 pesos in total 😉
Interesting to know too: it’s in this district, and only here in the world, that a very rare endemic species lives: the axelote. This rare, dragon-shaped fish lives at the bottom of Xochimilco’s canals.
If you’d like to learn more about the famous Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, the Coyoacan and San Angel neighborhoods are the place to go. This is where she lived with Diego Rivera. You can visit her famous blue house, but please note that you need to book online at least a week in advance! Remember to do so, not like us, who were duped. We could fall back on the Diego Rivera studio house museum, also very interesting for architecture enthusiasts.
In this building you’ll be able to see Diego Rivera’s personal belongings, giving you an idea of his passion for painting and works of art.
Both artists lived only briefly in these studios. When Frida left Diego, she moved into the Casa Azul (Blue House).
Continuing with Mexico City’s list of interesting museums, I personally recommend the museo Soumaya, which is completely free of charge and boasts magnificent architecture. The museum boasts one of the world’s largest collections of works by Rodin. A pleasure for the eyes.
After the visit, for fans of Kawai, I recommend a cappuccino at the Hello Kitty café in the nearby shopping mall.
And finally, there’s the heart of the city to do, with the temple mayor, the torre latinoamerica and the palacio national, but I still recommend a visit to the Basilica of Guadalupe further north. Indeed, Mexico City’s basilica is the second most visited Catholic place of worship in the world after the Vatican: it is dedicated to Our Lady of Guadalupe, the name given to the Virgin Mary who is said to have appeared to a native Mexican in 1531…
Today, between fifteen and twenty million people make a pilgrimage to this holy place every year. And don’t be surprised if you find not one but two basilicas! After a bomb exploded in the original basilica, weakening its structure, a new, more modern one was built next door. It’s in this basilica that you can see the sacred shroud.
The Virgin of Guadalupe is Mexico’s patron saint. She is celebrated every December 12 (national holiday).
So, are you ready to visit Mexico during the Festival of the Dead? ????
To conclude this article, for those interested, here’s the difference between All Saints’ Day, Dias de los Muertos and Halloween.
All Saints’ Day, the Catholic feast of all saints
All Saints’ Day is celebrated by Catholics on November 1. Its origins date back to the 2nd century, when followers of Christianity began to honor those who had died as martyrs. The specific date of November 1st appeared in the West in the 8th century, when Pope Gregory III dedicated a chapel in St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome to all the saints. Around 835, Pope Gregory IV ordered that the feast be celebrated throughout Christendom. According to some historians, this decision is the reason why All Saints’ Day is now celebrated on November 1. On the advice of Gregory IV, Emperor Louis the Pious instituted the feast of all saints throughout the Carolingian Empire.
Since then, November 1st has been a public holiday. No work and no school!
All Saints’ Day should not be confused with All Souls’ Day! On November 1, people declared “Saints” by the Catholic Church are celebrated. On the following day, November 2, Catholics pray for their departed loved ones and visit cemeteries to pay their respects and lay mums and other flowers.
Halloween, a Celtic festival on October 31 in honour of the god of death
Originally, Halloween comes from the English expression “All Hallows Eve”, meaning “the evening of all saints”, i.e. the eve of All Saints’ Day, October 31. It’s only logical that these celebrations should take place on the same weekend! All Hallows Eve is a Celtic festival celebrated on the evening of October 31 in honor of the pagan god Samain (god of death).
Place offerings in front of doors to appease spirits…
On this night, according to legend, the ghosts of the dead visited the living. So villagers placed offerings outside their doors to appease the spirits… After the wave of Irish immigration to the United States, Halloween took root there with great success. Even today, children and adults alike love to dress up and scare each other as they celebrate, or go from house to house asking for treats with the famous phrase “Trick or Treat?
In Mexico, a colorful festival recognized by UNESCO
In Mexico, the days of the dead (“Días de los Muertos” in Spanish) are celebrated on November 1 and 2. But, unlike All Saints’ Day in France, sadness and contemplation give way to celebration. For in this typical Mexican tradition (born in pre-Columbian times), both life and death are celebrated.
For Mexicans, it’s a time to show love and respect for departed family members. The Day of the Dead originated thousands of years ago among the Aztecs and other pre-Hispanic cultures, for whom mourning the dead was a sign of disrespect. For them, death was seen as a natural phase in the long cycle of life. For this reason, the dead were always kept alive by memory and spirit, and on Dia de los Muertos, they temporarily returned to earth.
In 2008, UNESCO recognized the importance of Dia de los Muertos by adding it to its list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask me in the comments, I love reading and answering you.
See you soon for new adventures!
