When you’re planning a round-the-world trip, there’s so much to read, study and think about that certain aspects escape you. When we were choosing which countries to visit, Chile quickly came to the top of the list. I’d seen photos of landscapes that literally brought tears to my eyes, and I really wanted to see them with my own eyes.
So why did you choose it over Bolivia or Argentina? I still ask myself that question today.
While I have absolutely no regrets about seeing the indescribable landscapes that northern Chile has to offer, and which remain my fondest travel memories today, I prefer to be honest with those who wish to go and warn them about the cost of the trip and the atmosphere.
Indeed, in my opinion, this is no longer a destination for backpackers, unless your budget is in excess of 40 euros per day per person.
Please note that this is a very personal opinion that only I can accept.
Why do you feel this way?
In our round-the-world trip, we were more interested in sharing, exchanging and freedom than in discovering unforgettable landscapes.
Our stay between Iquique and Santiago left us with a bitter taste for several reasons.
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Over-protected sites around the Atacama Desert
Yes, this country has fabulous sites, some of which leave you speechless. But since the Covid crisis, Chile has decided to make its natural gems increasingly inaccessible. In any case, it obviously wants to reserve it for a well-to-do population that can afford the services of a guide or tour operator.
In Atacama, parks are closed for a yes or a no, without explanation. Some sites are open, but you have to book in advance, and they’re very expensive. It’s impossible to move around freely. Tourists must follow the official paths, or risk being called to order.
It’s understandable that protecting these sites requires organization and limits. But severe restrictions on travelers outside tourist groups are detrimental to authenticity and freedom.
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Prices on a par with European countries
After visiting other South American countries, we were surprised to discover that Chile has the same prices as Europe! Whether it’s for food or accommodation, it’s hard to find anything decent without paying top dollar. The same goes for petrol. Which is a bit rich when you consider that the minimum wage is around 480 euros. So it’s hard to understand where the money from tourism goes…
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A less warm welcome than in other South American countries
In terms of hospitality, this too is a cold shower. Chileans are less welcoming than their neighbors. And they have a high image of their country compared to Peru, Bolivia or Colombia. You can almost sense a form of racism towards them.
Fortunately, there are exceptions!
As we found a home exchange through HomeExchange, we were able to meet and talk to some wonderful people like Juan Carlos and his wife, who welcomed us into their apartment in Iquique as if we were part of the family. We enjoyed spending time with them so much that we met up with them again at their main house south of Santiago. We also caught up with a friend we’d met on the trip who lives with her boyfriend in Santiago.
All these moments of living with them gave us a better understanding of their mentality, and helped us to soften our rather negative feelings about the Chilean welcome.
My itinerary recommendations in northern Chile for backpackers
Now that you’ve been warned about Chile’s prices, but would still like to stay there, I’d like to offer you my feedback and recommendations.
For the record, we didn’t cross southern Chile. Our trip covers the northern regions, from Iquique to Santiago.
Things to know before you go:
– For car rentals, be careful with credit/debit cards. Many French people find themselves in trouble if they don’t have a “debit” credit card. In France, however, most cards are credit cards. Before you leave, check this point carefully and don’t hesitate to order this type of card, unless you have an American Express. You’ll need it to make a deposit on the vehicle.
– If you have a Hellobank card, you won’t be charged for withdrawals with Scotiabank, as the two banks have a partnership agreement.
– Take cash with you. Be careful if you arrive directly at Iquique airport. The airport is very small and there are few cash dispensers. I therefore recommend that you arrive with cash to avoid any inconvenience.
– The Atacama Desert is a magnificent place where the most beautiful natural sites are concentrated BUT today it’s really made for organized mass tourism, with places and times reserved for groups and roads that are difficult to access if you don’t have a 4×4.
1st tip for backpackers: take the bus over the Peruvian border to Arica or fly directly to Iquique.
We took the second option and have not regretted our choice.
Iquique is much nicer than Arica, and the road to the parks is crazy, with desert landscapes and ghost towns well worth the detour.
With its dune and landscaped embankment, the town offers plenty of fun for board sports enthusiasts.
You can also just watch the sea lions battling the fishermen on the shore to catch fish. A particularly amusing spectacle.
In the city, we found the perfect hostel: Aotea Hostel. Well-placed, clean, with peaceful, well-designed dormitories, and right across the street a car rental agency that gave us the best price! It’s Avis Budget. We were able to get an SUV for 42.50 euros a day, with a little excess buy-back insurance to boot. I should point out that we were there outside school vacation periods(in March).
Don’t forget to ask the rental company for a gas can to keep a reserve of gasoline. It may come in handy.
In the evening, head for Baquedano boulevard for a drink. A pleasant boulevard of colonial houses.
2nd tip for backpackers: head for the Lauca natural park and the Surire salar with Putre as your base camp.
Lots of animals, unspoilt landscapes, a feeling of freedom…. I really recommend visiting this region for 3/5 days to do the loops at your own pace and admire the flora and fauna.
If you’re in Arica, the town of Putre is a must for acclimatizing to the altitude and spending a few days visiting the park and reserve. Make sure you book your accommodation well in advance, as they’re scarce in the town and good deals are quickly snapped up. I wouldn’t recommend the one we stayed in as it was too basic in terms of cleanliness.
If you’ve rented your car from Iquique, then enjoy the drive! The Presentias Tutelares sculptures and the ghost towns of Humberstone and Santa Laura are really interesting (on the outward or return journey, as you wish).
We really enjoyed the visit.
The Humberstone and Santa Laura saltpeter plants are two former potassium nitrate processing sites located in the Tarapacá region of northern Chile.
With the decline in activity, both sites were abandoned in 1960. Classified as national monuments in 1970, they were transformed into ghost towns in the middle of the Atacama desert, and began to attract tourists. Today, the factories are a UNESCO World Heritage site.
On the road, there are few places to stop for lunch. I therefore recommend that you do so in Cuya.
You should also fill up with petrol in Arica, as there are very few filling stations near the parks.
Lauca National Park is totally free (for the moment). It can be visited by car. The park is dominated by majestic snow-capped volcanoes at altitudes of over 6,000 m, which are reflected in the Cotacotani and Chungará lagoons, offering an exceptional panorama.
If you’re a wildlife enthusiast, you’re in for a treat! Many species of birds, foxes, herds of llamas and alpacas can be seen here.
Take a leisurely stroll to the Chirigualla thermal baths, where you can enjoy a soak in the midst of an exceptional panorama.
On another day, drive to the Surire salt flat. If your car is a 4×4, you can even go as far as the Polloquere thermal baths. If you only have a crossover or a simple car, I strongly advise against going as far as the thermal baths. The road is really difficult.
3rd tip for backpackers: head for the Atacama Desert by bus and share the cost of a rental car.
If you’d like to travel through the Atacama Desert to see the magical sites this region has to offer, you can get there by bus from Iquique.
From the Rodoviaro terminal, Kennybus makes the journey and offers a wide range of timetables for around twenty euros. You’ll then arrive in Calama, where you can drive to the airport to pick up a rental car.
Why a rental car rather than a group outing?
As you’ve read above, group outings aren’t what you’d call freedom, so if you can avoid it… What’s more, excursion rates are much more expensive than car rentals. Especially as you’ll then have to pay for access to the various sites… Yes, it’s become a very juicy business.
First of all, I’d advise you to book your vehicle online in advance, as they go very quickly during busy periods. When we arrived, there was only one vehicle left (in low season!). Don’t forget to check the condition of your tires… And don’t forget your spare tire – you may need it!
To share the cost of renting, the best thing to do is anticipate by looking for people on the “French in Chile” Facebook page. There are always people looking for this kind of deal, so don’t hesitate to indicate when you’ll be in the desert, and I’m sure you’ll find what you’re looking for. Thanks to this, we were able to get to know Fanny and Nathalie, and it was very rich in sharing and good times.
Together, we took in some of the less touristy spots, stopping wherever we pleased.
For accommodation, book in advance if you want the best value in the village. There are guest houses with dormitories at reasonable prices. As there were 3 of us, we opted for an AirBnb and were able to negotiate the price for the week.
My favorites in the Atacama Desert (paid and free) :
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Pay sites
– The Piedras Rojas (which you can combine with the Miscanti and Minique lagoons, unless you’ve already done a lot of lagoons…). You can book your visit on the website.
This is one of the sites where I took one of my biggest beating. Imagine a picture of a chain of volcanoes reflected in emerald lagoons with astonishingly white shores… A magical place with hills of different hues and, finally, red stones… I could have stayed for hours in front of this natural tableau.
It’s a long way from Atacama village, but well worth it. Especially as the road also offers magnificent panoramic views.
– The Valley of the Moon: my second favorite ♥️ of the trip.
This small desert is a natural sanctuary made up of a variety of minerals. It owes its formation to thousands of years of water and wind erosion that have sculpted its soil. The canyons, ravines, dunes and rocky peaks you can admire are reminiscent of lunar landscapes.
Once again, you’ll need to book your visit online, and if you want to avoid the crowds, I recommend going between noon and two. The ticket gives you access to the site to watch the sunset in the evening, but I find it has lost its charm, as you can’t bring things to nibble on for an aperitif, and the guards are there to call you to order.
–Tatio-Muchaca geysers
The day before your visit, make sure the site is open the next day, as it’s a two-hour drive. You don’t need to book, you pay on the spot. Many blogs suggest you come early, as soon as they open. Personally, I recommend coming around 7:30/8:00 a.m., as the tourist buses leave around 8:30. It’s quieter and there are always plenty of fumaroles. Head for the parking lot at the far end of the site, and then return quietly to the entrance.
On the way back, take a tea or coffee break in the small village of Machuca and take a photo of its typical church.
– Cejar and Piedra lagoons
The Laguna Cejar has the particularity of being so concentrated in salt that it floats very well.
Admission isn’t cheap, however, and costs 15,000 pesos per person (€20). That’s quite a budget if you want to see them all. What’s more, for private visitors without a guide, the site is only open in the morning. In the afternoon, it remains open exclusively to groups and guided tours provided by agencies and tour operators.
- Free websites
– A hike through the Guatin Canyon, with its cactus groves reminiscent of American landscapes!
The spot is ideal for a walk followed by a swim. We even did it twice, so much we enjoyed the place. Just be careful not to be too far away in case of rising waters.
– The Magic bus. I’m bummed because we couldn’t find the place, which isn’t easy if you go alone. But the spot looks really nice to see and do. As we already had a punctured wheel and the agency forbade us to take the road to laguna Baltinache, we didn’t dare go there, but on a bike I think it could be a superb ride.
To get there, leave San Pedro de Atacama on Route 23 CH and enter the dirt road that leads to the hidden Baltinache lagoon. The B241.
After about 6 or 7 km, you should turn left onto a dirt road that leads to a long antenna or something similar.
After passing this antenna, follow the dirt roads (be careful, there are no signs). After about 10 minutes on these roads, the magic bus appears on your right behind some rocks.
Be careful not to come back in the dark, as it’s easy to get lost.
– TheArcoiris valley is also very nice to do, but check beforehand whether it’s accessible by car.
You can also spend a morning exploring the charming village of San Pedro, with its adobe walls and beaten earth floor.
We didn’t go out to see the stars, nor did we visit the meteorite museum. When you’re on a long trip, you have to make choices!
One last tip for backpackers: take the bus to Bolivia!
After Chile, we had to head for Asia. So we flew from Calama to Santiago. It was quicker and not necessarily more expensive than the bus journey.
Before our departure, we were able to visit Valparaiso and Santiago. Again, this is totally subjective, but we found Valparaiso very overrated. The city must have had its heyday, but unfortunately today it seems somewhat abandoned and unkempt. It’s a shame, because the potential is there. As for Santiago, it’s a pretty capital, but no wow factor for me.
If we could do it again, we would have taken the same route as our friend Fanny, who took the bus back to Bolivia. The road between the two countries is apparently magnificent, and the border crossing is very smooth.
It’s so close that from Atacama, excursions are offered to the Uyuni salt flat, but it’s better to do it on the Bolivian side, as it’s cheaper.
That’s it, folks, I hope you find this article useful for your future travels. Don’t hesitate to ask me any questions you may have in the comments section.
See you soon for new adventures!
