After a trying start to the year, we really needed to get away and recharge our batteries. As luck would have it, we had already scheduled a trip to Brazil, which came at just the right time. Why this destination? Quite simply because, during our world tour, we’d already had the chance to experience the madness and excitement of the Rio Carnival. That experience was so intense and unforgettable that we vowed to return to the country, but this time to experience the Salvador de Bahia Carnival, reputed to be just as crazy, but decidedly different. We couldn’t wait to relive this popular festival.
You’ll need at least 15 days to discover this region. Firstly, to acclimatize to the heat and enjoy the paradisiacal beaches of the islands near Salvador, and secondly, to fully experience Carnival with its wild days.
Our journey took us from theisland of Tinharé, with its peaceful village of Gamboa, to the hustle and bustle of Salvador de Bahia. This is the travel diary of our stay, which we’d love to repeat every year, so charmed are we by everything that makes this region so rich. I’d like to take this opportunity to thank two Brazilian-loving friends, Delphine and Coline, who helped me prepare this trip.
Preparations and practical advice before departure
Before your trip, it’s essential to be well-prepared so that you can relax when you get there. Here are a few tips based on my own experience:
Flights: we flew to Brazil with TAP Portugal, which offers regular flights from Paris Orly airport. If we booked our tickets well in advance (at least 4/5 months in advance), we were able to find tickets at less than 850 euros round-trip with one bag in the hold. By the way, if your flight arrives late at night or you have to leave very early, don’t hesitate to stay at the Aéro Hôtel, located close to the airport, which is practical and rather clean.
SIM cards: I recommend that you check with your operator whether your package covers Brazil. If not, be prepared for a few complications, as SIM cards are not sold at Salvador airport and a Brazilian number (CPF) is often required for activation. Orange, for example, offers a one-month travel pass for around 30 euros. Free, meanwhile, already includes Brazil in its international package, with no additional pass required.
Cash withdrawals/currency exchange: here too, check with your bank to see if you can use your bank card free of charge abroad. This is important and practical, as in Brazil you can pay for almost anything with it. Before you leave, if you want to leave with a few reals in advance, I recommend exchanging around 50 euros, or withdrawing money directly when you arrive at the airport (a small amount, as the exchange rate is not very attractive). If, once in Salvador, you need to change money , for a good exchange rate, go to the central square of Pelourinho, opposite Cuco Bistrô, at “Aquarelle Incentives et Spécial Tour/Câmbio”.
Local transport: Salvador has two metro lines (about 4 real a ticket), but buses (5.60 real a ticket, to be paid directly inside) and Uber are also very efficient. Uber is well developed in Brazil and is a safe and affordable option.
Home exchange: As HomeExchange enthusiasts, we opted for this solution during our stay in Salvador, in the Imbuí district, a quiet, safe neighborhood with good metro links, ideal for getting to the carnival circuits. Luckily, if we planned well in advance, we were also able to find a second exchange in Gamboa, thanks to the owner of the 1st accommodation! The plan is really ideal, as during this period, prices can easily soar. So, if you choose another option like AirBnb or hotel, book well in advance. If you’d like to experience the adventure of home exchange, here’s a referral code that will earn you an extra 250 guestpoints: claudieetantony-18810.
In my suitcase: among the things to pack, think of a discreet fanny pack to put under your shorts or tee-shirt to avoid having your personal belongings stolen in the carnival crowd. And don ‘t wear necklaces or precious jewelry around your wrist or neck. The less attention you attract, the better for you. As carnival is at the end of February, the climate is rather hot, so be careful with your skin. Make sure you bring sun cream, sunglasses, a hat and light clothing. And don’t forget to treat yourself to a pair of Havaianas flip-flops! The Brazilian brand has several stores where you can snap up a pair at the best price!
Our stay in Gamboa: the perfect haven before the carnival fervour
Before plunging into the hustle and bustle of Carnival, we felt the need to recharge our batteries. Our first week in northern Brazil was spent on the island of Tinharé, in Gamboa, in the north of the island. This peaceful village proved to be the ideal refuge, perfect for reconnecting with yourself. Gamboa offers a tranquil lifestyle, punctuated by evenings spent in the small village square in the company of the locals. Unlike Morro de São Paulo, which is much more touristy, with its restaurants, luxury boutiques and tourist tax (as soon as you arrive in Morro de São Paulo, you have to pay this tax at the Morro de São Paulo maritime terminal, at the entrance to the town. This fee is called TUPA – Droit d’utilisation du patrimoine de l’archipel, and costs R$50.00 per person. Senior citizens do not pay and children up to 5 years of age are also exempt).
Getting to Gamboa from Salvador is easy from the Terminal Turistico Náutico da Bahia.
Two options are available :
- If you’re not too seasick, you can take a “Catamaran” boat. Allow around 2h-2h30 for the crossing. Biotur offers catamarans to Morro de São Paulo, where you simply take another small boat to Gamboa (3 reals per person). Be sure to indicate when you buy your tickets that you want to go to Gamboa! And if you’re prone to seasickness, it’s best to take the outside seats amidships.
- Alternatively, you can take a very large boat from Salvador to Bom Despacho and then a bus to Valencia (52 reals/pers.) for a 2-hour bus ride. From this small town, you can take a last small boat to Gamboa (22 reals/pers. for the crossing, departures every 30 minutes or so).
During your stay, you’ll be able to enjoy the beaches, caipirinhas and ice creams made with açaí, the Brazilian super-fruit that I loved (once again!).
I had the opportunity to taste this local speciality on our first trip to Rio, and I have to say I had very fond memories of it… So when I returned to Brazil, I couldn’t wait to try it again!
Acai (pronounced “assai”) is a small purple berry native to Amazonia, from the Euterpe oleracea palm tree. Used for centuries by Amazonian peoples, it is now recognized as a superfood thanks to its richness in antioxidants, fiber, good fatty acids (omega-9) and vitamins.
In Brazil, you can find it literally everywhere: in the street, on beaches, in shopping malls… And best of all, it’s eaten frozen! A texture somewhere between ice cream and sorbet, often served in a bowl, with toppings à la carte: bananas, granola, shredded coconut, guarana syrup or condensed milk for those with a sweet tooth. A true institution.
After acai… time for other Brazilian sweets!
It’s impossible to talk about Brazilian culinary delights without mentioning tapiocas. In Gamboa square, the little snack bar that serves them has become our canteen! Tapioca is a small, soft pancake made from manioc flour and pan-fried without fat. It can be sweetened (with banana, grated coconut, condensed milk…) or salted (cheese, ham, eggs, tomatoes…). It’s a bit like the Brazilian crepe, gluten-free, light and ultra-popular. You can find them in markets and on the street. A real favorite for me!
Another specialty we sampled on site was moqueca. This typical Bahian dish is a fish (or shrimp) stew, simmered in a coconut-tomato sauce, with peppers, onions and dendê oil (red palm oil). Served piping hot with white rice and farofa (toasted cassava flour). A real treat!
We’ll continue our culinary discoveries in Salvador with a few restaurant recommendations!
Before returning to the mainland, don ‘t miss the pink and red clay cliffs at the end of Gamboa beach. A real treasure! Don’t hesitate to coat your body with this natural, mineral-rich clay. It’s known for its purifying and exfoliating virtues: it’s a bit like treating yourself to a salon treatment, but 100% natural, facing the ocean. All you have to do is spread it on your skin, leave it to dry for a few minutes in the sun, then rinse it off in the sea. The result: soft skin and a feeling of absolute well-being. And the setting is magical: the colors of the cliffs contrast with the green of the coconut palms and the blue of the sea… A perfect spot for a relaxing break or a few dreamy photos!
For hiking enthusiasts, I’ve got one last good plan for you…. and to save you spending the 50 reals per person for the entrance fee! Morro de São Paulo can be reached on foot in about an hour! A steep path through the vegetation is passable. The route is on Google maps. It’s easy to find. Once you’ve reached Morro, it’s time to explore the numbered beaches!
Whatever you think of the town, you have to admit that its beaches are simply sublime.
Here they are:
- Primeira Pra ia (first beach): this is the closest to the village center. Small but lively, it’s a haunt for surfers and zip-liners (yes, there’s a zip-line all the way down to the sea!). Perfect for a shot of adrenalin or to watch the locals in action.
- Segunda Praia (deuxième plage) : c’est le cœur de la vie festive de Morro. Ici, musique, bars les pieds dans le sable, restos et cocktails au coucher du soleil donnent le ton. Idéale si tu veux faire la fête ou simplement t’imprégner de l’ambiance brésilienne. On y trouve aussi pas mal d’hébergements.
- Terceira Praia (third beach): a little quieter, it marks a transition to a more tranquil atmosphere. Here you can rent kayaks or stand-up paddles to explore the surrounding area. It’s also a good starting point for an excursion to nearby Caitá Island.
- Quarta Praia (fourth beach): the wildest and most unspoilt, perfect for those looking for a quiet spot. The water is turquoise, the coconut palms stretch as far as the eye can see, and you may even come across horses! A real gem for lovers of nature and tranquillity.
- Praia do Encanto (or Quinta Praia): even further away, almost deserted, this is the Brazilian version of the end of the world. It lives up to its name of “enchanted beach”.
As you’d expect, the last two are our favorites. For the return trip to Gamboa, you can take a water cab in the late afternoon.
Salvador Carnival: an explosion of sound and joie de vivre
Salvador de Bahia… The name instantly conjures up intoxicating percussion, the bright colors of colonial houses and the boundless energy of the world’s largest street carnival. This city, with its deeply Afro-Brazilian soul, vibrates to the rhythm of candomblé, capoeira and batucadas.
A unique Carnival
We had the pleasure of experiencing this fervor first-hand during the Salvador Carnival. Unlike in Rio, where the carnival is organized around the majestic parades of the samba schools in the Sambodrome, Salvador’s carnival is a truly immersive popular street party close to the people. There are no bleachers or expensive tickets here.
Trios elétricos: the vibrant heart of street carnival
The trio elétrico is THE star of Salvador carnival. But then, what exactly is it? Imagine a huge sound truck, transformed into a mobile stage, from which artists play live as they slowly make their way down the street, followed by a cheering crowd. These trucks pull music the way others pull floats, except that here, we dance, we sing, and above all, we move with them.
And this year, 2025, was a very special one: the elétricos trios celebrated their 75th anniversary! It all began in 1950, when two Bahian musicians, Dodô and Osmar, had a crazy idea: install amplifiers on an old Ford car to make the crowd dance to the sound of their electric guitars. Little did they know, they had just revolutionized Brazilian carnival.
Since then, the concept has exploded, with dozens of trios parading the Barra-Ondina and Campo Grande circuits every year, transforming the city into a giant open-air dancefloor. And the crazy thing is, you can either follow the trios in the street (free of charge), or experience them from the camarotes (festive stands with open bar, DJs, food, toilets – the ultimate in luxury), or even walk right around the trios, in the ropes, if you’re wearing the famous abadá (the bloco’s official T-shirt).
40 years of Axé: music that moves Salvador
And if you’ve heard of axé Music, it’s not for nothing. This year also marked another important anniversary: 40 years of Axé! This is THE sound that has been rocking Salvador since the 80s. An explosive cocktail of samba, reggae, frevo, forró, pop… and a hint of trance. In short, a genre that makes you jump, move, scream and smile.
Axé was born in the streets of Salvador, precisely with the elétricos trios, carried by artists such as Ivete Sangalo, Daniela Mercury, Chiclete com Banana and Bell Marques, to name but a few. Names that still have thousands of people swaying behind their trio. When these voices are heard, everyone knows the words – even first-time tourists!
I also recommend a visit to the Salvador Carnival Museum (Museu do Carnaval), located in the Pelourinho district. It’s an immersive place, superbly designed to help you understand the history, rhythms, characters and symbols of this incredible festival. You’ll discover costumes, emblematic instruments (hello Olodum percussion), archive videos and even immersive experiences. A great way to immerse yourself in Bahia’s festive soul… without breaking a sweat!
Practical tips to make the most of Salvador Carnival
To make the most of Carnival, here is some practical information and advice:
- Each carnival circuit has its own atmosphere (ask your hosts or hotel for a map):
- The Dodô circuit (Barra-Ondina): the most festive, on the seafront, where the elétricos trios move slowly down the avenue while the crowd dances until dawn.
- The Osmar (Campo Grande) circuit: the most authentic, rooted in tradition, where axé and samba-reggae music rock the central streets.
- The Batatinha (Pelourinho) circuit: more intimate, this tour features Afro-Brazilian cultural groups and traditions in a historic setting.
- A few weeks before you leave, check out the official Salvador Carnival website for the full program of concerts and street parades. If you don’t know any of the bands, then, like us, you can simply wander around each of the circuits to enjoy the festivities. I, for example, simply wanted to see the group Olodum, in a free parade. So we checked to see when they were marching in this way, and went to the appropriate circuit (because there are also paid parades, “on the ropes”, and to collect abadas-type tickets, you have to go to shopping malls).
- Camarotes: if you want to enjoy carnival in complete safety and with a privileged view of the parades, you can opt for the “camarotes”, reserved areas along the routes (including the Dodô circuit on Barra-Ondina). These VIP areas, with services such as drinks, food and entertainment included, can be a great experience.
- Tickets can be purchased in the city’s shopping malls, such as Shopping da Barra or Shopping da Bahia. Don’t hesitate to ask the AirBnB or the hotel to help you find these sesames! Rest assured, there’s no need to buy tickets in advance – you’ll always find them on the spot, and a few days beforehand, some even have special offers for the last seats. Don’t be surprised, the tickets are “abadas”, T-shirts that vary in color depending on the day. It’s customary to customize them. Specialized stands in the malls offer customization services for around 180 reais, with a multitude of models available.
Souls of Carnival: Olodum and the Sons of Gandhi
It’s impossible to talk about Salvador Carnival without mentioning the people who make it happen. As you walk through the streets, you’ll see groups of people dressed in the same outfits.
Here are the ones we came across during our stay:
- The Olodum group, founded in 1979, is one of Brazil’s most famous percussion ensembles. Pioneers of samba-reggae, Olodum have gained international recognition, not least thanks to their collaboration with Michael Jackson on the video for “They Don’t Care About Us”, shot in the streets of Salvador. Their powerful music and messages of anti-racism and civil rights resonate strongly during Carnival, where they parade with infectious energy.
- The Filhos de Gandhy (Sons of Gandhi). Another emblematic figure, this bloco, founded in 1949 by black dockworkers, is inspired by Gandhi’s principles of non-violence and peace. In contrast to the exuberance of other groups, they march in blue-and-white outfits inspired by traditional Indian dress , and advance through the crowd handing out beaded necklaces and diffusing lavender scents.
- As Muquiranas: a legacy of irreverence. Founded in 1965 by Lindolfo Araújo de Carvalho, nicknamed Charita, the bloco As Muquiranas is renowned for its originality and irreverent spirit. Every year, the members cross-dress as women, arousing curiosity and admiration.
Other not-to-be-missed visits to Salvador
Salvador isn’t just about carnival: the city is full of neighborhoods, restaurants and shows to make you succumb to the Balinese spirit.
To understand Salvador, you need to delve into its history. Founded in 1549, it was Brazil’s first capital and a major port for the African slave trade. This history has profoundly influenced its culture, making Salvador a city where African traditions are omnipresent, notably through music, dance and religion. Even today, its DNA is deeply marked by African cultures.
The Pelourinho, a UNESCO-listed historic center, bears witness to this history with its Baroque churches, colorful houses and squares where the drums of candomblé still resound. One of my favorite spots is Rua Direita de Santo Antônio, a stone’s throw from Pelourinho. It’s a street full of charm, lined with colorful houses, flower-filled balconies, arty little cafés, art galleries and cosy pousadas overlooking the bay. A perfect place to stroll, take Insta-worthy photos, or chill out with a coffee in hand as you watch the sun set over the ocean.
To immerse yourself in this culture, take your time:
- Stroll through markets such as the Feira de São Joaquim,
- Attend a performance by Balé Folclórico da Bahia, a troupe that showcases Afro-Brazilian dances and traditions. Performances take place at the Teatro Miguel Santana in Pelourinho (book in advance on their website),
- To leave a ribbon in front of the Basilica de Bonfim, a Salvador landmark reflecting the region’s religious syncretism. The famous colorful ribbons, or “fitas”, are distributed here. According to tradition, each knot made by tying the ribbon around the wrist represents a wish, and when the ribbon comes off naturally, the wish is supposed to come true. Each color represents a deity of Candomblé, an Afro-Brazilian religion combining Catholicism and African beliefs.
- Tasting Bahian cuisine. You can’t come to Salvador without trying an acarajé. It’s THE typical Bahian snack, sold on the street by baianas, women in white dresses and traditional scarves. But be warned, this is no simple snack: acarajé is steeped in history, flavor and spirituality. When it comes to taste, imagine a small deep-fried ball made from French beans (feijão-fradinho), crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, split in two and topped with dried shrimp, vatapá (a spicy purée made from bread, coconut milk, peanuts, etc.), salad and sometimes even a hefty chilli pepper. But acarajé is also a sacred Candomblé food, offered to Iansã, the divinity of winds and storms. Well, I have to admit I wasn’t a fan! But you can make up your own mind!
- Here are three restaurants I’d recommend with my eyes closed: Dona Suzana: a sea view and a shrimp moqueca to die for, what more could you ask for? Restaurante da Eva: an authentic address with typical dishes in Pelourinho and Cuco Bistrot for a more gastronomic dinner.
- Côté glaciers, ne manquez pas deux institutions : le glacier Acubana dans le centre-ville et le glacier Da Ribeira (dans le quartier de la Basilique de Bonfim). Ils concurrencent aisément les gelatos italiennes !
- Relax at Flamengo Beach, a well-appointed beach perfect for a more leisurely day.
So there you have it, my friends, with this account I hope to have made you feel the emotions of this trip. On the one hand, the gentleness and authenticity of an unspoilt village. On the other, the contagious madness of a carnival unique in the world. Two faces of the bewitching Bahia region, which leaves an indelible imprint on the hearts of those who venture there. To find more photos and videos, head to my Instagram account, in my featured stories.
