Quicou les bichettes,
For the 2016 summer vacations, after having mentioned our desire to discover Bali, the proposal of a home exchange with Guadeloupe via the SwitcHome website seduced us and we decided to take the tickets to spend the month of July there with our family.
In this article, which I hope you’ll enjoy, you’ll discover the story of our stay and follow our escapades through Basse Terre and Grande Terre.
Personally, I have to confess to having a soft spot for Basse Terre, which I find much more authentic and vegetal than the more urbanized Grande Terre.
You’ll also discover some practical tips, addresses and favorites!
Ready for take-off?
Preparing for your trip
My practical advice before you leave is not to hesitate to invest in a pair of water shoes (10€ at Decathlon, for example). They’ll come in very handy, as there are lots of sea urchins and pebbles in the water. You’ll also need a mask and snorkel for snorkeling, and don’t forget to buy mosquito repellent suitable for tropical areas.
We chose to travel from Nantes to Paris Massy by train for practical reasons (there were 4 of us with a lot of luggage).
Once we arrived at Paris Massy station, we took a 91.10 bus that runs between Paris-Orly and Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines station, via Massy-TGV. The fare is very reasonable: €1.90 per person and it runs about every 30 minutes.
For the West Indies, at this time of year (July/August), even if you book well in advance and use flight comparison services, you can expect to pay around €800 each way. For our trip, we flew Air Caraïbes. This airline left me with a more than average impression, due in particular to two negative points:
- The plane was late on both the outward journey (one hour) and the return (almost 4h00!).
- The age of the aircraft: no individual screen for the 8-hour flight, but collective screens with the same films on the outward and return legs!…
Fortunately, two good points slightly qualify my opinion: the little “welcome aboard” package with hot-water socks, headphones and a sleeping mask, and the on-board service: meal trays that are pretty good for a flight and with tropical flavors (free punch!).
When we arrived in Pointe-à-Pitre, a friend of the couple who were doing the home exchange kindly came to welcome us and take us to our house in Goyave (Basse Terre). As soon as we left the airport, the tone was set (6h00 less than in France), it was very hot and the air was very humid, which I didn’t mind!
My advice for the first few days on the island
As you have to get used to the time difference and the rhythm of the island, the first day is fairly quiet. If you’re going away as a family, get your bearings and start by defining your tasks in a weekly planner (you’re on vacation too :)). At the time, I found an excellent weekly planner in the Nantes boutique ” sous les étoiles exactement “. It’s an ideal tool when you’ve got children to avoid shouting at each other, as everyone has their own tasks to do, which can change over the weeks.
Then it was off to the Destreland shopping center in Baie-Mahault to find a superstore. I’ll tell you more about this mall later, as I took the opportunity to do a bit of shopping there 🙂
In the afternoon, we head for Cluny beach in Sainte Rose. This is a beautiful beach in Basse-Terre. However, the sea is rough and there are lots of waves.
For the 2nd day, we decided to try out the ” barber design ” hairdresser in Goyave as two of my men wanted a haircut. I took the opportunity to get my hair braided! I preferred to do just two braids, as my hair is very fine and fragile. It was a really typical and funny moment, very interesting to get to know the locals. They can also give you tips on sightseeing, markets and good restaurants. If you want to try it out, don’t be in a hurry!
In the afternoon, on the advice of a friend, we tried out another beach: Petit Havre, between Gosier and Sainte Anne. And let me tell you, the word is very apt! It’s a real haven of peace, well known to the locals, but be warned: parking spaces are scarce.
Day 3: Point-à-Pitre market and Cascade aux écrevisses (crayfish waterfall)
We decided to go to the Pointe-à-Pitre market. It wasn’t my favorite of the trip, as we really felt the “touristy” side. You’re not allowed to take photos unless you’re buying products, spice sellers grabbing you by the arm…. Choose the markets in the island’s smaller towns, which are much more authentic, where you’ll find the same products at a lower price, but with a smile and a small gesture. In the afternoon, for a change from the beaches, we take the “route de la traversée” towards the famous “cascade aux écrevisses” (crayfish waterfall) and the “maison de la forêt” (forest house) with its discovery trail. A word of advice: don’t go there at weekends, as it’s THE meeting place for Guadeloupeans who like to get together there for picnics with family and friends. It is therefore very difficult to park on Saturdays or Sundays.
On the other hand, it’s an ideal place to cool off. The water is cold, the waterfall is great for photos and, on the other side, the dining area has been set up with sheltered wooden tables and a self-service barbecue.
Day 4: Gosier and its islet
We plan to spend the day in Gosier, where a leg of the famous TGVT – Tour de Guadeloupe en Voile Traditionnelle – is taking place. On the program: some very cool entertainment and a local lunch of bokits (local sandwiches) and cod accras. In the afternoon, we take a shuttle bus to the islet of Gosier (5 euros round trip per adult and 3 euros for children up to 12 years for the crossing between the pier and the islet). It’s a magical place, with postcard-clear water and palm trees that make for great photos. Don’t hesitate to try a coconut sorbet at snack time 🙂
Day 5: St Thomas hot baths and the Vanibel house
Head for the hot baths of St Thomas, near Bouillante. No, you’re not dreaming, I’m talking about hot baths at 35°! Even if you don’t stay long, it’s amazing to see this little place where volcanic rocks heat the water. Like us, you’ll even be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of iguanas above you as you swim!
After this discovery, we set off again in the direction of the Vanibel house.
The four of us enjoyed the tour, which was narrated with passion by Joël, the guide, who explained the different coffee, banana and vanilla crops. At the end of the tour, we were even allowed to taste a house coffee and eat some coconut!
On the way home, as it was Friday evening, we stopped off at the Montebello traffic circle in Petit Bourg (Basse Terre) to do the local market, open between 3pm and 9pm. It’s a real favorite for me! We found vegetables, typical dishes (accras, poulet boucané) at ridiculously low prices and homemade spices and planters. An absolute must.
Day 6: Rest and stroll in Bois Sec sur Goyave
We’re taking advantage of the day to get some rest. Yes, as you may have noticed, the days are very busy and Morgan has caught the Zika virus! So he needs to recharge his batteries. So we decided to follow the advice of the owners and walk to a small river 20 minutes’ walk from the house. It’s a very pleasant, cool and quiet spot in Bois Sec, Goyave. Just up the road is the roots bar “passe le mic”, where every Sunday you can enjoy live music and vegetarian dishes. Here again, there’s no need to be in a hurry – life is all about the sounds and rhythms of reggae!
Day 7: Guadeloupe Zoo at Parc Des Mamelles
Still in “cool” mode and to please Morgan, who is slowly recovering from the virus, we set off towards the route de la traversée to visit the Parc Zoologique des Mamelles. This is the Guadeloupe zoo. It’s a really pleasant place, as it’s located in the middle of a lush forest. Numerous monkey bridges allow you to get up high and admire a wide variety of animal species: monkeys, parrots, raccoons, leopards…
The visit lasts from 1h30 to 2h30 on average and is sure to please young and old alike 🙂
Day 8: Pointe des Châteaux and Ste Anne
We decide to take a day trip to visit the tip of Grande Terre. After a picnic on the beach just before Pointe des Châteaux, we climb to the summit at the end of the island: from there, a magnificent view of Guadeloupe awaits, and on the way down, the coconut sorbet sellers are there for a well-deserved snack!
On the way back, we stop off at the beach in the village of Sainte Anne. It’s a very nice beach, with activities for children and a small craft market where you’ll find plenty of souvenirs to take back to metropolitan France: bracelets, local jams… and not forgetting the chichi and coconut sorbet vendors, always on hand for those little hungers!
Day 9: Séverin distillery and Deshaies botanical garden
After a leisurely morning, we hit the road to discover the Séverin distillery. We really enjoyed this visit, as it’s perfect for young and old alike. We start with a ride on the little train. After the ride, we’re invited to taste the rum and local products made on site, such as the famous and delicious Creole condiments. At the end of the tour, you’ll have the chance to explore the area on foot again, including a visit to a typical old house.
In the afternoon, I take advantage of my proximity to Deshaies to stroll through the botanical garden. It’s a peaceful stroll through the astonishing flora of the West Indies! This 7-hectare park offers a wide variety of remarkable plants and trees. A journey for the senses for young and old alike, imagined by renowned landscape architect Michel Gaillard. It’s also worth noting that the garden is the former property of Coluche!
Day 10: Forced rest!
The only rainy day of the trip forced us to stay at home for an enforced rest period. Yes, the Zika virus has got the better of us! Joint pain, fever and itchy pimples all over the body meant we had to take some time off… to better prepare for the days ahead!
Day 11: Sainte-Rose
This time we’re heading for Sainte-Rose for a 1/2-day expedition to discover the lagoon. The lagoon is a 15,000-hectare expanse of sea enclosed by the longest coral reef in the Lesser Antilles (almost 30 km). Mangroves, shoals, coral reefs and ilets are just some of the marvellous sites to be discovered.
We hire a motorboat without a license from the port of Sainte-Rose and set sail on turquoise waters for a PMT (Palmes, Masque, Tuba) dive on the coral reef and its famous wreck. We also took the opportunity to pass close to the mangrove swamp.
We also recommend our boat rental company ” lagoon location “, who gave us great advice (itineraries, boat handling, GPS navigation, etc.) and the rate was one of the best found for a 1/2 day. Be sure to book well in advance to make sure you have a boat available.
Tip: Pack a picnic! What could be better than having lunch in the middle of the lagoon? Don’t forget your cell phone and sun cream.
Day 12: first dive in the Cousteau reserve
This day will remain particularly engraved in my memory as it was the moment when I made a first dive for the first time in my life!!!! For this experience, after some research we decided to do it at Malendure in the Cousteau reserve, with the îlets diving center! The team is very welcoming and really available for baptisms. Once we’ve been kitted out with our equipment, we head out on the boat with the instructor, who explains how the session will unfold. Among other things, I learn the basic diving gestures. Then it’s time to jump into the water! Again with a great deal of pedagogy, my instructor equips me and teaches me how to breathe. And off we go for an unforgettable experience! For about thirty minutes, I gradually descend to the seabed, enjoying the view before me. Magically colored fish and turtles accompany my journey. All I want to do is stay at the bottom of the sea to admire this gentle landscape. Back on dry land, the graduation ceremony is over and the punch is waiting for us!
Day 13: hike on the Grande Soufrière volcano
Today we’re off to the Soufrière volcano for a hike. A word of advice: bring good shoes, a kway or poncho and a change of clothes, as you’ll be coming back soaking wet! You can also bring a bathing suit, as there are hot baths at the start of the hike, so it’s nice to enjoy them after the effort! Allow 2 hours for the outward journey and 1 hour 45 minutes for the return. La Soufrière is notorious for always being rained on. Many people are planning this walk, so it’s best to arrive early to find a parking space.
In the evening, we leave the kids at home for a romantic evening in Gosier! I urge you to try this restaurant booked by my boyfriend on the good advice of Trip Advisor: TI MAKI. All the food is homemade by the waiter’s mother. The food is local and the prices are very reasonable. The meal ends with a mouthful of flavors.
Day 14: rest 🙂
Rest before the day in Les Saintes. We decide to return to the Bois Sec river, close to the house, for a good time.
Day 15: Saintes island
We’re up early to spend the day on the island of Les Saintes, visiting Terres de Haut. We take a shuttle from Trois Rivières. We chose the Béatrix shuttle because it offered the best timetables and prices (about 15 euros per person return).
The boat is air-conditioned and medium-sized (96 seats).
Allow 25 minutes for the crossing. Beware, it moves quite a bit (those who are seasick may want to bring a small bag…).
- Two ticket offices are available:
Trois-Rivières (14 rue du Phare, Bord-de-Mer) opposite the small market on 0590 25 08 06 - Terre-de-Haut (Place du débarcadère, next to the Tourist Office) on 0590 94 89 96
You’ll also need to pay for parking at Trois Rivières to leave your car for the day (5 euros).
Once you’re here, there are a number of ways to explore the island. The easiest and most economical: on foot. As there were 4 of us and two teenagers, we chose to rent an electric cart. It’s ideal if you want to enjoy the island for just one day. You’ll pay 70 euros a day for the car. It’s best to book in advance, as there aren’t many rental companies and the cars are very popular!
After collecting our vehicle, we head for Fort Napoléon, which closes at 12:30. It’s a great visit, because it’s not too long, so it doesn’t bore the kids. The great thing about the fort is that you get a splendid panoramic view of the whole bay. No wonder it’s been compared to the Bay of Rio!
After this visit, we continue on to the island’s various beaches and the sites recommended by the rental company. This island is truly beautiful and not to be missed if you decide to spend a holiday in Guadeloupe.
Day 16: Shopping session in Destreland
After such beautiful days on the islands, it’s time to think about souvenirs to bring back to friends and family. For that, we headed for Destreland for a shopping session (and a visit to the Mémorial ACTe museum in Pointe à Pitre for my boyfriend!). Destreland is perfect for fashionistas like me! It’s Guadeloupe’s biggest shopping mall, where all the brand-name stores are grouped together for the shopper’s delight! MOA, JENNIFER, QUICKSILVER… and a large Carrefour are all there. Personally, I fell head over heels for Jennifer’s back-to-school collection, where I snapped up a sweater, a bag and a T-shirt!
Day 17: Morne-à-l’eau, Petit Canal and the Gates of Hell
So as not to leave without exploring the whole of Guadeloupe, we set off on a tour of the heights of Grande Terre. The tour begins with a visit to the listed Morne-à-l’eau cemetery. This cemetery is unusual in that its tombs are decorated with black and white checkerboard tiles.
We then continue our expedition to “Les Marches de Esclaves”. Located in Petit-Canal, this site is steeped in history and emotion. Indeed, it’s impossible to remain insensitive as you climb these 49 steps, said to have been built by the slaves themselves, to lead them from the port where they disembarked to the Petit-Canal church where they were sold.
After these highlights, we stop off at the magnificent chapel beach for a picnic and a swim.
The end of the day is devoted to a visit to the Porte d’Enfer and the trou de madame coco. La Porte d’Enfer is located a few kilometers from the commune of Anse Bertrand.
It’s a beautiful spot. There’s a small beach where you can swim.
For the more courageous, there’s a signposted path accessible to all.
After a few kilometers, you’ll see the impressive chasm “Le Trou de Madame Coco” on your left. It’s named after a legend that tells of a woman who was a witch who made a pact with the devil to become stronger than her rival Madame Grands-Fonds.
Having broken the pact, she threw herself into the sea, and the devil took her to this very spot.
After the hike, we hit the road again, stopping off at the famous “Plage de la Caravelle”, home of Club Med Guadeloupe.
Day 18: End of stay, last swims
It’s the penultimate day, and unfortunately we have to pack and clean the house. After getting everything ready, we decide to spend one last afternoon on our favorite beach: Plage de Malendure, to swim with the turtles in PMT. We also take the opportunity to stop by the roadside to taste Guadeloupe’s famous kassaves: delicious sweet and savoury galettes!
That’s it! I hope I’ve made you want to visit this island, which sincerely touched me with the kindness of its inhabitants and its plant beauty.
Feel free to leave me a comment on this trip and ask me any questions you may have! I’d be delighted to talk to you about this island.
See you soon 🙂
