There are times when the urge to escape the daily grind, to stop the routine of metro, work, sleep, becomes very strong. The pressure and atmosphere suffocate us, the weather turns gray… Everything pushes us to seek brightness, disconnection and serenity.
That’s why my boyfriend and I decided to leave at the end of November, outside the school vacations, for southern Morocco, in the Agadir region.
Slow Travel
To make the most of this interlude, we both agreed to travel in “slow travel” mode, i.e. take our time : enjoy every moment, soak up the sights and sounds, and meet new people.
The principle of this type of travel is simple: live according to the lifestyle of the local population and meet new people. To be able to adopt this philosophy, you need to have plenty of free time, curiosity to spare, simplicity and openness to others. It’s a great way to discover yourself and your aspirations.
To be able to do this, we didn’t plan our stay in advance. Apart from our Nantes-Agadir plane tickets booked on the Transavia website, and the car rental we found on Autoescape, we really let ourselves be guided by our instinct and our desires.
The advantages of this type of tourism
Although we had already adopted this type of tourism in Burkina Faso, with a solidarity component, Morocco seemed the ideal place to continue practicing this philosophy. It’s a country we really like, and the French language is widely spoken, so it’s very convenient for exchanges.
This week gave us the opportunity to discover the region in depth, and to admire it from a child’s point of view. We were able to make great friends with the locals and follow their way of life for a while. Not being pressed for time, we were able to live from day to day.
The period (late November) was also ideal for slow travel, as few tourists are in the area. We were able to enjoy our trip on a limited budget, as it was easy to negotiate prices for hotels and goods in the souks. This mode of tourism led us to adopt the local way of life, by hitchhiking, picking up locals in our car, using the bus or eating local produce.
As you can see, the real advantages of this type of tourism are ..:
- Give real priority to direct economic and intercultural exchanges with local populations. Taking the time to choose the people who will guide you through a remote region means you can avoid foreign middlemen (travel agencies, for example, who only pass on a small part of their tour fees to the locals).
- Observe local life and become aware of the cost of living. We learn, for example, to pay the right price, the one that will limit social imbalance and avoid spoiling the system. For example, by asking the people having coffee next to you how much you should pay the parking attendant on average, you can avoid paying a disproportionate amount (we’re no longer just tourists!).
- Create links with local residents and give ourselves the opportunity for spontaneous encounters. It’s much easier to make these kinds of encounters when you’re living at people’s pace: pick up youngsters hitchhiking to school, stroll down the street and naturally accost people, pick up a bite at the market or sit at a table on the sidewalk in the middle of the crowd and order the dish of the day like your neighbor! All this will really encourage exchanges, rather than just whizzing through the main streets in a minibus or tourist bus!
I have to tell you, this travel philosophy has done me a world of good. For me personally, becoming a slow-traveler has allowed me to let myself wander and do the unexpected. I’ve been able to listen to my body and feel deeply what makes me really happy, to understand what I really need to feel alive and free. No more time constraints and hyper-connection! What a joy it is to wake up in the morning without an alarm and not know what life has in store for us during the day!
Last but not least, it gave me a lot of ideas for our future as a couple. We were able to discuss our plans together, and that brought us even closer together. Moments like these really weld a couple together. I’m a real fan.
Would you like to try it too?
Here are my favorites of the week.
Paradise Valley: on the honey trail
After our three-hour flight, we picked up our rental car and headed straight for Paradise Valley.
Located northeast ofAgadir, in the heart of the Berber region on a winding road between oases, hills, gorges and fairytale plateaus, this valley offers an incredible landscape. It ‘ s famous for its beekeeping, and boasts a magnificent variety of palm groves nestling in the hollows of valleys and multi-hued rocks. While honey is the pride of the region, you can also marvel at the banana, olive, date, almond and pomegranate trees!
The steep road sometimes forces us to drive at 10 km/h in 4×4 mode (but we don’t care, we’re in “slow” mode!!). We take advantage of this to stop whenever a place makes us want to take some pretty pictures! Along the banks of the wadi, which become increasingly rocky, we come across tables and chairs sunk into the water. A refreshing invitation when the temperature rises.
A complete change of scenery! In the same day, we go from rain and cold to streams, limestone gorges, sumptuous plantations and charming villages in the Moroccan countryside.
For the record, Paradise Valley was made famous by the greatest of coincidences. A German couple stricken by the disease passed through the valley and were cured six months later. In the 60s and 70s, with Jimi Hendrix, Paradise Valley became a gathering place for hippies. Many hippies in search of meaning come to live in “caves” for a few months at a time.
This valley is also a hiker’s paradise. Numerous hiking trails offer wonderful walks. Some lead to natural pools with turquoise waters (in the Aourir hinterland).
Imouzzer waterfalls: a refreshing break
In the center of the region lies the Berber village ofImouzzer Ida Outanane, a group of small white houses suspended above a verdant palm grove at an altitude of 1250 meters.
On the heights of the village, you can admire the famous Imouzzer waterfalls(Imouzzer means “waterfall” in the language of the Imazighen free men). Born of springs that appear just above this site, these waterfalls and the natural setting that surrounds them are much appreciated for their freshness and the spectacle they provide, especially in spring. From May-June onwards, however, the flow of the most abundant waterfall begins to dry up. The show is only seasonal!
On arrival at the waterfall parking lot, you’ll be greeted by local guides. This is their only activity, as the region is far from Agadir. These Berbers will be happy to accompany you for a few dozen dirhams. Of course, this service can also be refused (clearly, but kindly). On the way back, parking is not free.
The waterfalls are a five-minute walk away, best taken through the small forest above the parking lot, if you’re looking for shade.
This is where we chose to spend our first night. A friendly guide offered us accommodation at the foot of the waterfall, spartan and without wifi, but with hot water, a bed and blankets (for 250 dirhams with breakfast). If you’re interested, ask for the address (ask for Bara Mibarh – his tel: 06 66 46 28 09).
We took the opportunity to explore the village and stroll through the narrow streets lined with souvenir stores and cafés. Unfortunately, the waterfall had dried up due to a lack of rain, but the charm was still there.
The owner of the accommodation offered us a tagine prepared by his wife for dinner (100 dirham for two with bread, tea and fruit for dessert).
The next day, before setting off again, we bought some carob tree honey (an unknown flavor and an incomparable taste). This distinctive honey is recognized as an outstanding intestinal regulator.
On the way, we stopped off to visit the local Imouzzer market, which takes place every Thursday in the village.
We then take the car back to Taroudant.
On the way, we stop at a school where children are quietly waiting for their teacher. They seem surprised to see strangers coming to offer them a few pens. I’m touched by their laughter as we drive off, and their little hands waving goodbye through the window.
Taroudant, the “little Marrakech
Located 80 km east of Agadir, Taroudant is home to around 80,000 inhabitants. Entering the town through one of the four main gates takes you back in time. Taroudant has all the hallmarks of a 16th-century Berber town, with its narrow, crowded streets and stalls filled with produce from all over the region. Surrounded by ramparts, this Moroccan Carcassonne offers decrepit walls that plunge you into the atmosphere of the Middle Ages.
Inside, there are no historic monuments, just a bustling little town. Here, the locals treat you less like a tourist than elsewhere. It’s easy to wander through the souks or visit the tanners’ quarter outside the city walls.
We chose to spend the night at Riad Taroudant des Palmiers. We liked the concept of this Riad, which belongs to the Ligue Marocaine pour la Protection de l’Enfance. This association works with children in difficulty, particularly abandoned children. It decided to renovate this former convent and transform it into a guest house. Profits from the riad, located at the entrance to the town, are used to care for children in difficult situations and to support the Lalla Amina children’s center in Taroudant.
Expect to pay 300 dirhams per night (shared bathroom and toilet) and 25 dirhams for breakfast. Everything is very clean, the wifi is very good and the location means you can walk all over town.
After spending the afternoon strolling through the souks, we head off for dinner at the city’s best restaurant (the one that cost us the most of our vacation!).
Located near Porte Targhount, Riad Maryam offers lunch and dinner by reservation only. You therefore need to call in the morning for an evening reservation or in the evening for lunch the following day.
For our dinner we had soup, 10 portions of starters, a pastilla, dessert and tea.
The cuisine is full of flavor and extremely fresh. The welcome is warm in this very pretty restaurant set around a patio. On the other hand, the quantities are gargantuan. You’re eating for 4 and paying for 4! Count 250 dirhams per person.
My advice: don’t hesitate to bring a couple of plastic trays with you, so you can take home what you haven’t eaten and have a picnic for lunch the next day 🙂
The next day, we hesitate whether to head for the seaside or Trafraout. As we’ve come down with a bit of a cold, we prefer to take it easy by the sea.
We continue our road-trip towards Mirleft.
On the way, we choose a nice spot by the sea to eat our picnic. It’s a spot near the fishing village of Tifnit.
Poor starving dogs join us! I feel sorry for them. If I’d known, I’d have bought some kibble to feed them.
Mirleft: a little corner of paradise
We reach Mirleft quietly in the evening. The coastal road is incredibly beautiful and we enjoy the sunset. This part of Morocco is a blend of the Auvergne and the Mediterranean. It’s not for nothing that it’s a famous spot for surfing and paragliding!
When we arrive in the village, we start by asking theAbertih Hotel if any rooms are available. Unfortunately for us, the hotel is fully booked for at least a week! We ask the owner if he has any hotels to recommend. He suggests we go a little further down the main street to try our luck at theHotel Atlas.
The owner is very welcoming, and luckily they still have rooms available, so we negotiate two nights at 300 dirhams per night, including breakfast. The room is simple but has a private bathroom.
To avoid staying in a hotel, we decided to try out a restaurant on the street. On TripAdvisor, we were tempted by the oldest restaurant in the village: Taighout. And what a delight! It’s going to be our canteen for our entire stay in the village! The prices are low and the food is exquisite! From soups to pizzas and tagines 🙂
The next morning, we start with a lie-in. Then, after a long chat with the owner, we enjoy breakfast on the terrace, soaking up the warmth and rays of the sun. The cats do their charm act to get a piece of cheese 🙂
We then set off for a walk to Mirleft beach. A feeling of well-being and freedom really takes hold of us… What happiness! Even though the water is cold, I can’t help taking off my shoes and walking close to the water, to feel more alive.
On the beach, stray dogs rest, accompanied by their puppies. It’s so cute! I almost want to adopt one!
Quite frankly, Mirleft was my favorite part of the trip!
It’s a unique place, where magic and simplicity merge, where time no longer matters, a place from which you never want to leave and which makes you want to belong. What you find here is more than a vacation, it’s a true source of well-being and renewal, a deep rest, a new way of looking at life…
It’s no surprise to find so many backpackers, hippies and people enjoying the view and the weather! For example, this atypical encounter with a French couple in a converted truck, who have been traveling the world for 5 years.
This place is truly magnificent and well worth a visit. You can come across surfers, fishermen living in caves near the arch and young locals who have pitched their tents to live simply, in harmony with nature. I remember this discussion with a young beach dweller. 
In the evening, we head north again, stopping off in Tiznit. The town resembles Taroudant in that it is also bordered by ramparts, but it seems smaller.strolling along the road that leads us to the town center, we pass by a migrant camp. We stop to chat with them about their origins and living conditions. Suspicious at first, having been scalded by other people filming them without their knowledge, they finally understand that our intentions are based on human relations, and agree to show us the camp and its occupants. We suggest that they go to the supermarket to do some shopping. Among them we meet Mohammed, an 18-year-old Guinean. We learn why he chose to leave his country and what his plans are for his life. We keep in touch with him and hope his situation improves. Since our trip, there hasn’t been a day when we haven’t chatted on Whatsapp with Mohammed.After these very rich encounters, we visit the town center and stumble upon the restaurant à l’ombre du figuier.As its name suggests, you are welcomed and served in a well-kept décor, and the presence of the fig tree in the center of the patio means that you are sheltered from the sun during the day. The menu is regularly updated according to the restaurant’s market supplies, and the products are very fresh. The menu is original, and the owner tries to offer something different from other restaurants. The chocolate-avocado mousse, for example, is highly original, as is the semolina salad with apple.
Shopping in Agadir’s souk
For the last two days of the trip, we choose to discover Agadir.
With its idyllic climate, palm-lined boulevards and seafront bars, it’s no wonder that Agadir is Morocco’s leading seaside resort, attracting many Western retirees. Known for its white buildings hidden behind the dunes, wide flower-filled boulevards, modern hotels and European-style cafés, Agadir is no longer a typical Moroccan town, but a modern, active and dynamic city, resolutely looking to the future.
Personally, it’s a town where I could really see myself living and having a small business! The town seems to offer so much potential! It’s in the back of my mind and I sincerely think we’ll be seeing each other again 🙂
When we dropped off our rental car at the airport (remember to fill it up and wash it before returning!!) we chose to hitchhike back to the city center. A young man stopped us and we became fast friends. Moussa works in the souk, and as it’s Monday, it’s his day off. He drives us to the embankment and suggests we drop in to see him the next day at his shop at no. 167 (between doors 4 and 5 in the souk). Appointment made!
For the rest of the afternoon, we stroll along the embankment and settle into a seafront restaurant. Camel’s is just perfect! With its attentive waiters, like Hakim for example, who brings us little plaids as soon as it gets cool, or who takes the time to join us at the table after his service to chat with us! I highly recommend it.
Just as I recommend the hotel where we stayed. It’s the Sinibad. Located on the Place Lahcen Oubrahim Tamri Talborjt, it’s simple but perfect because it’s very quiet and just a twenty-minute walk from the beach or the souk. We had breakfast in cafés close to the hotel.
Souk El Had: one of Morocco’s biggest souks!
The Agadir souk is one of the largest and most magnificent in Morocco. This authentic traditional market perpetuates the heritage of the country’s commercial squares. Open six days a week, except Mondays, the Souk d’Agadir is named Souk El Had, in memory of a time when it was held only on Sundays. Behind its adobe ramparts, you’ll plunge into a timeless atmosphere and discover an abundance of goods, from the most contemporary to the most artisanal.
Souk El Had attracts customers from all walks of life. Spices, olives, honey and dates, furniture and fabrics, as well as handicrafts, fashion, household equipment and tools – you’ll find it all, at competitive prices. With more than 10,000 workers, this large market brings together numerous trades and products from all over the world, several hundred fruit and vegetable stalls, and some 3,000 stores divided into boutiques and small stalls.
Fill up on vitamins at the souk and enjoy the freshness of local produce. The Agadir region is blessed with an abundance of natural produce, much of which is sold at the souk. Admire the colors, smell the fragrances and savor the flavors, all admirably sublimated by Moroccan cuisine. Doors 1, 2 and 3
Shopping in the souk means being at the cutting edge of fashion. You’ll find dozens of modern boutiques, as well as traditional Moroccan fashions and handicrafts. Doors 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10
The carpenters’ workshop is filled with the fragrance of cedar. The carpenters’ corner with its golden hands is the ideal place to perfect your decor. Doors 11 and 12
Finally, discover oils, soaps and all the beauty products made with argan oil in small shops like Moussa! Go for a jar of carob or cactus honey and a jar of amlou! Amlou is a Berber culinary preparation from the Souss region of Morocco. It’s made from argan oil and almonds or peanuts. It’s a tonic that’s served at breakfast or snack time as a spread on barley, corn or wheat bread. Doors 4 and 5.
It was in Moussa’s store that we spent part of our Tuesday! After our shopping, we met up with the young man who prepared a tagine for us! What a pleasure to exchange ideas and share a meal with a Moroccan friend. We learned so much about the customs and lifestyles of young Moroccans. In particular, we were able to discover the different stages in the preparation of a tagine! It was a really great time. We can’t wait to come back and see Moussa and his family, or to welcome him to France if he’s ever able to make the trip.
So there you have it, my friends, I hope our stay has inspired you to travel like us, to meet the country and its people, backpacker-style and far from the clichés of some who claim to be travelers but spend more time in palaces than in the field and close to the locals.
Don’t hesitate to post your comments to let me know if you liked this article or if it made you want to visit this region. It’s always a pleasure to get your feedback on my articles.
I send you my love.
What you need to know before you leave
- Identity papers: Keep your passport up to date
- Currency exchange: You can change directly at the airport (there is little difference between the cities and the airport office). Use the offices located near the car rental offices at the exit of Agadir airport. 1 € = about 10 Moroccan Dirham.
- Hotel: don’t hesitate to compare hotels. You can ask to see the rooms and then negotiate the price.
- Food: make sure you only drink bottled water, and check that the cap is open in front of you. If you want to eat salads, choose restaurants that are well rated in the guidebooks.
- Small gifts for the meetings: rather than giving money to the local population, we bought chewing gum, rubber bands, skipping ropes and pens for the children.
