{"id":8151,"date":"2023-08-15T21:14:36","date_gmt":"2023-08-15T19:14:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/jupetteetsalopette.fr\/non-classe\/my-five-emotional-visits-to-cambodia\/"},"modified":"2023-08-15T21:14:36","modified_gmt":"2023-08-15T19:14:36","slug":"my-five-emotional-visits-to-cambodia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/jupetteetsalopette.fr\/en\/globe-trotter\/my-five-emotional-visits-to-cambodia\/","title":{"rendered":"My five “emotional” visits to Cambodia"},"content":{"rendered":"

It may be smaller than its neighbors, Laos and Vietnam, but Cambodia still has plenty to explore, and plenty of emotional impact. <\/strong>From the temples of Angkor to Phnom Penh prison, via the “Pour un sourire d’enfant” association, 15 days is not too long to grasp, understand and appreciate all its history. Rather than offer you a classic travel diary, this time I’d rather share with you my 5 favorite visits, which moved me during this trip.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Follow the guide!<\/strong><\/p>\n

1. The temples of Angkor, in the footsteps of Lara Croft – Siem Reap<\/h2>\n

Arriving at the land border in the north of the country, we headed straight for Siem Reap to visit the Angkor temples for which Cambodia is famous. It’s hard not to be moved by these archaeological sites. <\/p>\n

Angkor is huge (covering more than 400 km\u00b2) and contains numerous remains of the various capitals of the Khmer empire, which flourished from the 9th to the 15th century.
\nIts location, in the middle of a majestic forest, and the beauty of its incredibly well-preserved archaeological sites leave you breathless. No wonder these temples have inspired film-makers. It doesn’t take long to feel like an adventurer when you step inside these stone monuments. <\/strong><\/p>\n

Since 1992, this vast historic complex has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To protect it from looters, the international organization launched the Angkor Conservation Program. In 1993, it also decided to transfer several of the site’s remains to the national museum in Phnom Penh. <\/p>\n

How many days in Siem Reap?<\/h3>\n

If you want to take your time, five days in the city won’t be too much.
\nWe found Sweetdreams<\/a> guesthouse to be very reasonable value for money. An added bonus: the swimming pool for a refreshing dip! <\/strong> As usual, we found two little “cantinas<\/strong> ” nearby where we could eat tasty dishes: Helen Caf\u00e9 and Lao Noodles<\/strong>. <\/p>\n

To get to the Angkor temples, around 7 km away, you have two options. If you’re a couple, you can rent a scooter. But the easiest way to avoid wasting time going from site to site is to book a tuk-tuk driver for the day. Expect to pay around 30 euros for his services (for three people). <\/strong>From the hotel, he takes you where you want to go, and knows the different entrances by heart. We had Nak<\/a> and I highly recommend him. He’s very charming and works to feed and raise his little family. Here’s his What’s app number: +855 11 643 339. He’s regularly in front of the hotel I recommended above. <\/p>\n

Before taking the tours, you’ll need to buy your passes. There are different formulas, and the easiest way to do this is directly online<\/a>. We opted for the 3-day pass (2 days + 1 free) at 62 euros \/ pers.<\/strong> I think it’s perfect. It’s valid for a total of 10 days, so you can take your time and avoid a succession of visits. <\/p>\n

Which temples to visit?<\/h3>\n

The first day started with Bayon, the temple with over 200 faces.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Located in the heart of Angkor, north of Angkor Wat, this Buddhist temple is famous for its large sculptures of Buddha faces.<\/strong> Carved on four-sided pillars, these heads command respect and contemplation. Today, the temple boasts just 37 standing pillars. <\/p>\n

\"Bayon<\/p>\n

We then head for the Ta Prohm<\/strong> site , made famous by the film Tomb Raider starring Angelina Jolie.<\/strong><\/p>\n

If you want to have lunch between the sites, avoid the restaurants on the outskirts of Ta Prohm.<\/strong> Instead, pack a picnic or ask the driver to take you to the entrance of Angkor Wat, where there are cheaper restaurants. <\/p>\n

\"Ta<\/p>\n

Overgrown with vegetation, Ta Prohm<\/strong> is a former monastery that hosted the filming of Tomb Raider. Here you’ll find century-old trees called “Tetrameles nudiflora”, whose roots are literally entwined between the stones above the temples.<\/strong> They’re so impressive that you’d almost think they weren’t natural. Their size and the way they are interwoven into the site give the place a striking atmosphere. A very mysterious atmosphere prevails. <\/p>\n

For the end of the day, we head for the two sites of Neak Pean and Preah Khan<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"Neak<\/p>\n

Neak Pean<\/strong>, a small Buddhist temple, was built and modified by the Khmer king Jayavarman VII in the late 12th century. It is of regular proportions, with a square pool surrounded by four smaller pools. It was used for purification rites. <\/p>\n

Preah Khan, <\/strong>meanwhile, was the center for the dissemination of Khmer culture. Erected by Jayavarman VII in honor of his father, the site was a Buddhist university. During the golden age of the Angkorian empire, it was home to over 1,000 professors. <\/p>\n

Before heading back to the guesthouse, we made one last stop to admire the sunset over the site of Phnom Bakheng.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Sunset<\/p>\n

The next morning, we got up at dawn to admire the sunrise over Angkor Wat. And it’s worth it.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Angkor
\n\"Angkor<\/p>\n

With a total length of 1,500 m and a width of 1,300 m, Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious monument. <\/strong>Its volume of stones is equal to that of the famous Kh\u00e9ops pyramid in Egypt. To continue the comparison, it took 30 years to build, compared with 20 years for Kh\u00e9ops, 3000 years earlier… <\/p>\n

In an admirable state of preservation (it’s the best-preserved temple in Angkor), it was built in the 12th century by King Suryavarman II. Every nook and cranny is covered with sculptures of gods, men and animals, most of which reflect Khmer history and culture. <\/p>\n

The site was originally a Hindu temple, before being converted to Buddhist worship around the 14th century. Today, it is still frequented by Buddhist monks. <\/p>\n

\"Angkor<\/p>\n

If you want to avoid the crowds a little, I recommend entering the temple and taking a left on one of the sides of the temple. <\/strong><\/p>\n

The view is magnificent (see below) and few people venture out. We took the time to admire the facade as we ate our breakfast. A real treat. <\/p>\n

\"Angkor<\/p>\n

After lunch, we set off for Banteay Kdei. <\/strong> <\/p>\n

Recently restored, the small temple of Banteay Srei was built in 967 to honor the divinity Shiva. It’s a lovely blend of Bayon temple and Ta Prohm.<\/strong><\/p>\n

At the entrance to the temple, you’ll find relief sculptures. Then, as you tour the monument, you’ll come across the gigantic trees whose roots take up space between the stones.<\/strong> <\/p>\n

\"Banteay
\n\"Banteay<\/p>\n

If you still have time before returning to the hotel, you can ask the driver to stop at Siem Reap’s botanical garden. It’s free and bucolic.<\/strong> It’s a pleasant place to stroll around, and you’ll find a number of endemic plants.<\/p>\n

2. APOPO VISITOR CENTER – Siem Reap<\/h2>\n

Staying in the Siem Reap region, I wanted to share with you this visit that touched me. During our trip, I wanted to meet and discover inspiring people and stories. APOPO is a perfect example. <\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Apopo<\/p>\n

APOPO<\/strong>, an acronym for “Anti-Persoonsmijnen Ontmijnende Product Ontwikkeling”(in French: D\u00e9veloppement d’un produit de d\u00e9tection anti-mines terrestres<\/em>), is a Belgian non-governmental organization which for almost 30 years has been training a species of Gambian rats, the “cric\u00e9tomes des savanes”, to detect landmines or tuberculosis.<\/strong> The organization works mainly in Africa (Angola, Mozambique, Tanzania), Asia (Thailand and Cambodia) and South America (Colombia).<\/p>\n

Bart Weetjens,<\/strong> APOPO’s founder<\/strong>, already owned domesticated rats as a child and naturally established a special bond with these rodents<\/strong>. A few years later, he became interested in Africa, where he traveled several times as a student. Faced with farmers’ limited resources, he came up with the idea of using rodents to detect anti-personnel mines. Belgium’s Directorate General for International Cooperation (DGIS) provided financial support in 1997. A year later, APOPO was registered as a non-profit organization in Belgium. <\/p>\n

In 2003, APOPO began operations in Mozambique. That same year, the association <\/strong>won the World Bank’s global Development Marketplace competition, which enabled it to obtain initial funding to attempt another application of the rats’ sense of smell, namely the detection of tuberculosis. <\/strong> <\/p>\n

Why did APOPO come to Cambodia?<\/h3>\n

The area most heavily contaminated by anti-personnel mines is close to the border with Thailand<\/strong>. These mines were laid by the Cambodian government in the mid-80s to block the passage of insurgents. <\/p>\n

According to a 2002 Landmine Impact Survey (LIS), the survival of almost half of the country’s communities was hampered by the presence of mines<\/strong>, preventing them from accessing land, roads and water. Cambodia is one of the countries with the highest number of deaths due to anti-personnel mines.<\/strong><\/p>\n

In 2012, APOPO entered into a partnership with the Cambodian Mine Action Center (CMAC) to begin demining the country, thereby promoting its reconstruction and development.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Between 2014 and 2016, humanitarian demining activities went perfectly and a group of HeroRATS were able to do operational work in minefields to help people return to their land.<\/p>\n

It was against this backdrop that the Siem Reap visitor center opened its doors in 2017. Its aim is to showcase humanitarian demining and APOPO’s unique work. <\/strong><\/p>\n

Today, the NGO continues to carry out these actions in many countries around the world, and continues its research and development to detect new diseases.<\/p>\n

\"Hero<\/p>\n

I really appreciated the presentation of the center, which was very well done, and the price (8 euros per person) was very reasonable. What’s more, it’s for a noble cause. <\/p>\n

If you’re interested, the APOPO Visitor Center is open daily from 8:30am to 5:00pm (last visit at 4:30pm). I advise you to book in advance by sending an e-mail to visitor.center@apopo.org. <\/strong><\/p>\n

4. “Pour un sourire d’enfant”, the moving story of an association born in Phnom Penh<\/h2>\n

After Kampot, it’s time for another beautiful story from Phnom Penh, that of “For a child’s smile” (PSE).<\/strong><\/p>\n

We’d heard about it in France. My boyfriend had interviewed the founders and wanted to find out more about their work in Cambodia. <\/p>\n

And the least we can say is that they’ve done a lot of work. In over 25 years of existence, PSE has already saved 12,000 children from destitution!<\/a> And when you visit the school, you can’t help but be moved to tears by the determination to give these young Cambodians a future. <\/p>\n

I don’t have any photos because they’re not allowed in the school, but I encourage you to check out their social networks.<\/p>\n

The “Pour un Sourire d’Enfant” story<\/h3>\n

In 1995<\/strong>, Cambodia had just emerged from 25 years of war, four of which were spent under the Khmer Rouge dictatorship (I’ll tell you about that in the last section). The<\/em> country was devastated.
\nThere were no landmarks, no structures. The poor live in great material, physical and moral misery.
\nAnd children are the first victims: their future is limited to waste dumps or wandering the streets with all their dangers. <\/p>\n

The founders, Christian and Marie-France des Palli\u00e8res, were young retirees on a humanitarian mission in Phnom Penh.<\/strong> When they discovered an open-air dump where hundreds of children live and work, they were shocked and immediately decided to “do something” about the children’s simple request: one meal a day and a place in school.<\/p>\n

Christian and Marie-France began distributing a few meals on the rubbish dump for the starving children, but were soon overwhelmed by the situation and flew to France at the end of 1995 to alert their family and friends who, faced with the emergency, rallied round.<\/p>\n

On their return to Cambodia, they set up a program to distribute meals and first aid directly on the rubbish dump, in a small hut.<\/strong><\/p>\n

The couple would then like to send the children to school, but the parents’ distress is such that, to get them to accept, they have to be given the children’s lost earnings in the form of rice distributions.<\/p>\n

They built a small school next to the landfill site, which first welcomed 10 children, then 40, then 100… And 250 by the start of the 1997 school year!<\/strong><\/p>\n

A few years later, Christian and Marie-France des Palli\u00e8res realized that primary and secondary school were not enough. Some young people – even with the Brevet in their pocket – couldn’t find work and returned to the dump. <\/p>\n

They then created a vocational training program – something that didn’t exist in the country – tailored to the needs of the Cambodian job market. Mechanics, beauty care, hotel and catering and even training in the film industry (Christian’s passion) are all available. <\/strong><\/p>\n

Today, even though Christian has passed away, the association continues to adapt to the needs of the children and their families.<\/p>\n

To visit the training center, please make a reservation. You can also have lunch on site in the application restaurant, and have your hair and make-up done by the students. <\/strong><\/p>\n

If you’d like to find out more about this formidable “weapon for destroying misery”, a documentary has been made. It’s called “Les p\u00e9pites”. <\/p>\n

5. Two memorial sites to remind us of the horrors committed by the Khmer Rouge – Phnom Penh<\/h2>\n

We’re staying in Phnom Penh, but this time we’re here to understand one of Cambodia’s most painful and influential stories. Visit the Tuol Sleng genocide museum and the “Killing fields” to learn more about this atrocious page of history. <\/p>\n

\"Phnom<\/p>\n

Understanding the history of the Khmer Rouge<\/h3>\n

A former French protectorate, Cambodia gained independence on November 9, 1953, at the end of the Indochina War. Now a constitutional monarchy, the country was ruled by King Norodom Sihanouk. <\/p>\n

In the 1960s, the regime was in dire straits. This marked the beginning of the Marxist guerrilla war led by the Khmer Rouge. From 1967 onwards, under the command of Saloth Sar, alias Pol Pot, this opposition metamorphosed into a systematic struggle against government forces. At the same time, the war that the United States was waging in Vietnam spread to Cambodia, where American troops came to flush out the Vietnamese forces that had taken refuge there. <\/p>\n

On March 18, 1970, the Americans helped General Lon Nol seize power. Norodom Sihanouk was deposed and the Republic was proclaimed on October 9. <\/p>\n

The departure of the American army in 1973 precipitated the arrival of the Khmer Rouge in power. On April 17, 1975, they took Phnom Penh and established the Democratic Republic of Kampuchea. <\/strong><\/p>\n

From then on, the dictatorship led by Pol Pot was characterized by massive population displacements<\/strong> (Phnom Penh was completely emptied of its inhabitants in one day), the elimination of the intellectual elite, forced labor, famine, widespread torture and summary executions<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Between 1975 and 1979, over one and a half million people perished in the chaos. Figures vary from 1.3 to 2.3 million dead, or 17 to 30% of the Cambodian population at the time. <\/strong><\/p>\n

The Tuol Sleng genocide museum<\/h3>\n

The Genocide Museum, or S-21, is a museum in Phnom Penh,<\/strong> which deals with the genocide. <\/strong> <\/p>\n

It’s a former prison, S-21, the best known of the 196 or so prisons that the Khmer Rouge dictatorship scattered across Cambodia in the 1970s.<\/strong> It was headed by Kang Kek Ieu, alias “Douch”, and reported directly to the regime’s top brass.<\/p>\n

\"Tuol<\/p>\n

Once part of the Tuol Svay Prey high school, the buildings of the large complex were converted into a prison and interrogation center by the Khmer Rouge in 1975<\/strong>. They then named it “Security Prison 21” or “S-21”. Reconstruction began with the installation of barbed wire on each of the building’s windows. Classrooms were also transformed into torture chambers and cells for prisoners. <\/p>\n

\"Tuol<\/p>\n

Between 1975 and 1979, almost 18,000 people were counted and imprisoned at Tuol Sleng. The prison held between 1,000 and 1,500 prisoners, who were tortured and killed along with their family members.<\/strong> However, the first victims belonged to the Lon Nol regime, which included soldiers, civil servants, doctors, students and others. Later, the prisoners arrested and executed en masse included well-known Communist politicians and their family members. <\/p>\n

In 1979, the Vietnamese army rediscovered the prison, after which the government of Kampuchea reopened it as a historical museum. In January 1980, Tuol Sleng was renamed the Khmer Genocide Museum. <\/p>\n

The museum is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. and for foreigners, the price is $5, plus $5 for the audioguide, which I really recommend. Allow at least 2 hours for the visit. <\/strong><\/p>\n

Today, the Tuol Sleng museum exhibits all kinds of photos and documents recounting the macabre events of Cambodia’s history. Sensitive souls please refrain. Scenes of torture and unrestrained violence, photos of tortured victims and rooms full of torture instruments are all on view. <\/p>\n

The site is made up of four main buildings, named Building A, B, C and D. Building A consists of large cells where the bodies of the last victims were discovered. Building B is the gallery where the many black-and-white photos are on display. Moving on to Building C, you’ll see the old cells where the Khmer Rouge kept their prisoners. And finally, building D is the room where leggings and instruments of torture are on display. The latter building also features paintings of tortured, suffocated and hanged prisoners by former prisoner Vann Nath. <\/p>\n

Killing Fields, located in the village of Choeung Ek<\/h3>\n

Once the tour is over, you can then go to the Killing Fields, located in the village of Choeung Ek.<\/strong><\/p>\n

From 1975 to 1979, under the Khmer Rouge regime then known as “Democratic Kampuchea”, Choeung Ek became the main execution site for prisoners from Tuol Sleng S-21 prison. <\/strong> <\/p>\n

Long before its transformation into a mass execution site, Choeung Ek was a perfectly peaceful place. It was in fact a cemetery for the Chinese community living here, 17 kilometers southwest of Phnom Penh. <\/p>\n

Choeung Ek Memorial Park was built around the mass graves<\/strong> of several thousand victims, most of whom were executed after interrogation at Phnom Penh’s S-21 prison. The majority of those buried at Choeung Ek were Khmer Rouge killed during the regime’s purges. <\/p>\n

Bones and clothing regularly resurface after heavy rains, due to the large number of bodies still buried in shallow mass graves<\/strong>. It’s not uncommon to come across victims’ bones or teeth scattered on the surface during a visit to the memorial park. <\/p>\n

One of the most symbolic and striking features of the site is this tree, now covered in bracelets, where newborn babies were executed.<\/p>\n

\"Killing<\/p>\n

To get there, I advise you to take a tuk-tuk and negotiate for it to wait for you on the way back.<\/p>\n

Entrance to this site is also around ten euros with the audio-guide.<\/p>\n

Before experiencing this very special day, I recommend that you download the film “First they killed my father” on Netflix. <\/strong><\/p>\n

It’s an American-Cambodian film directed by Angelina Jolie, released in 2017. It is an adaptation of the autobiographical novel by Cambodian activist Loung Ung, who lived during the Khmer Rouge period. <\/p>\n

To finish with a less emotional visit to the capital, I recommend passing by the Royal Palace and visiting the Wat Phnom temple, where you’ll come across the great hornbills, one of Asia’s most impressive birds. The island of Koh Dach, also known as “Silk Island”, is a great place to pick up some pretty fabrics as a souvenir and see how they’re made. <\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Calao<\/p>\n

In terms of accommodation, I recommend the Sacred Lotus Cafe\/Hostel<\/a>. Located right next to the Russian Market, which is well worth a visit, the hotel has private rooms and dormitories. The atmosphere is very bohemian, with a rooftop where you can chill out in the evening. The restaurant is vegan. <\/p>\n

Nearby, we had a canteen where we went for dinner every night! It’s called Golden Pumpkin<\/a>. The value for money is unbeatable and the dishes are absolutely delicious. Go there with your eyes closed!
\nI hope you’ve enjoyed this article and that it has inspired you to discover these inspiring or moving stories. If you have any questions, remarks or comments, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I’m always ready to listen. <\/p>\n

See you soon for new adventures!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It may be smaller than its neighbors, Laos and Vietnam, but Cambodia still has plenty to explore, and plenty of emotional impact. From the temples of Angkor to Phnom Penh prison, via the “Pour un sourire d’enfant” association, 15 days is not too long to grasp, understand and appreciate all its history. 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3. “La Plantation” in Kampot, a superb agro-tourism project<\/h2>\n

Heading further south in Cambodia, we spent several days in the the town of Kampot.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Does the name ring a bell? Of course it does!The town is famous for producing some of the best pepper in the world.<\/strong> <\/p>\n

There are a great many peppers and berries on the planet. But some are reputed to be the best in the world. Among them are : <\/p>\n

– Voatsiperifery grown wild in Madagascar.<\/strong><\/p>\n

– Sichuan berries from China.<\/strong><\/p>\n

– Penja pepper<\/strong>, an exceptional pepper straight from Cameroon<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

– Kampot pepper<\/strong>. This pepper has had a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) since 2009. It is grown in the provinces of Kampot and Kep in south-western Cambodia. It develops fruity, minty notes. Its spiciness is medium. <\/p>\n

This spice loves fertile soil in warm, humid climates. So it’s not surprising that it can be found here. <\/p>\n

As my darling is a fan of pepper, we were curious to find out how it is produced. So, while searching on the net, we found the Plantation website<\/a>. And here again, we were really touched by Guy and Nathalie’s project<\/strong> who, on arriving in Cambodia for the first time in 2013<\/strong>, fell under the spell and created a project for the development of the country and its rural community.<\/strong> <\/p>\n

\"Kampot<\/p>\n

They then transformed a wasteland site some twenty kilometers from Kampot into an agrotourism center built on a foundation of social, responsible and sustainable values.<\/strong><\/p>\n

The first three years were devoted to setting up the Kampot pepper plantation and the spice processing workshops. A complete production facility enables the spices to be processed and packaged directly after harvesting. A guarantee of flavor preservation and compliance with international standards of hygiene and food safety. <\/p>\n

In 2016,<\/strong> they decided to open La Plantation to visitors, to show them all the manual steps involved in selecting the finest Kampot peppercorns.<\/p>\n

In 2017<\/strong>, they launched an exclusive product, Kampot pepper with salt. This is a unique technique for preserving the taste and crisp texture of fresh green Kampot pepper, by preserving it with Kampot salt. <\/p>\n

The same year, they also launched a program to safeguard Khmer architectural heritage. This began with the installation of the Salachan, a former pagoda refectory, which they completely dismantled and reinstalled at La Plantation.<\/strong> <\/p>\n

\"La<\/p>\n

Then, to broaden the range of quality spices offered to their customers, they went in search of the best spices in Cambodia, with a network of over 50 small family farms growing spices to “fair trade” standards.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Today, the Plantation has become the largest employer in the region. It employs over 150 full-time staff, and during the harvest, which lasts around 5 months, it employs between 100 and 150 extra people to collect the bunches and select the berries by hand. <\/p>\n

\"La<\/p>\n

Thanks to her, the local villagers receive a monthly salary and three meals a day.<\/p>\n

Some also have on-site housing, medical coverage and a retirement plan. They can also take training courses to upgrade their skills. <\/p>\n

In all, almost 1,000 people (employees and their families) enjoy good living conditions.<\/p>\n

In terms of education, Guy and Nathalie also wanted to support the village elementary school. They created an association whose primary objective is to promote access to primary education for all children in the village near the Plantation. <\/p>\n

They maintain the school facilities, provide the children with bicycles and school supplies… and pay the teachers’ salaries. They also pay teachers’ salaries. <\/p>\n

Their challenge is also to offer these rural children the opportunity to study at secondary school through to university, so that they can become independent, responsible adults of the future.<\/p>\n

Such actions command respect and admiration. No wonder they were awarded <\/strong>the Best of Excellence prize at the Gourmet S\u00e9lection trade show. <\/strong>The award recognizes not only the exceptional quality of their products, but also their ethical commitment to the production and fair trade of Cambodia’s finest spices.<\/strong> <\/p>\n

After this visit, you can also discover the town of Kep and its famous crab market, visit the salt marshes and spend a day on a scooter in Bokor Park.<\/strong><\/p>\n

For accommodation in Kampot, I recommend the Monkey republic<\/a> and the White Pigeon<\/a>.<\/p>\n